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Animal Magnetism 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ken Trout, Rick Leitner, and Kirk Miller
Page Views: 16,868
Submitted By: Chris Dawson on Nov 11, 2001

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Bill Wright at the lower crux.

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  • Description 

    This is a very fun line on upper Animal World. There is a low crux followed by sustained liebacking/underclinging up a left-leaning, left-facing corner. The route starts on the left end of a ledge in the middle of upper Animal World, just left of Animal Antagonism. Global Gorilla is the next route left, but it starts from the ground. This is one of the best sport pitches of 5.11 in the area. Let me just say that a lot of the ratings (including this one) in this area are a little soft. If this were in Eldo, it would be about 10d/11a or so. Either way, this route is well worth doing.


    13 bolts/anchors. bring a 60m rope to lower off (just barely makes it).

    Photos of Animal Magnetism Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Animal Magnetism.
    BETA PHOTO: Animal Magnetism.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Animal Magnetism.
    Animal Magnetism.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the anchor.
    Nearing the anchor.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Chris Beh pulling through the upper crux on a colo...
    Chris Beh pulling through the upper crux on a colo...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The crux of Animal Magnetism.
    The crux of Animal Magnetism.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Judy Karpeichik at the high crux. This involves a ...
    Judy Karpeichik at the high crux. This involves a ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Judy Karpeichik at the first crux.
    Judy Karpeichik at the first crux.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Wright high on the route. The route ends just...
    Bill Wright high on the route. The route ends just...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bill Wright searching for a foothold at the lower ...
    Bill Wright searching for a foothold at the lower ...

    Comments on Animal Magnetism Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 8, 2017
    By Bill Wright
    May 20, 2002

    I really enjoyed this route. It has a great variety of moves on it with a technical, fingery crux and then a long, pumpy, reachy section above. Good reach is an advantage on this route and seems to bring the grade on the upper section down a letter grade or so.
    By steve dieckhoff
    Jul 1, 2002

    I've led this w/3bolts and I think with the right cam another could be skipped. The clean protection is so good near the top that an A1 medium stopper could be tossed into the crack from 10' away (the bolt is inches away). This would have been a great route. The added finish is suspect and is another story.
    By Ken Trout
    From: Golden, CO
    Aug 11, 2003

    Comment deleted March, 2007. Sorry it took me so long to figure out how to get to my original account and delete the dumb stuff.

    Steve, or anyone, please message me via the mtn proj if you know of any other comments that need fixing.

    By steve dieckhoff
    Aug 11, 2003

    Is there, as they say, a grain of truth to Ken Trout's attempt at humor? By skipping 2/3 of the bolts on this route I didn't change it for those who can only imagine bolts, but neither was it much harder than clipping the bolts. It's just a rather disappointing experience given the potential for greatness. Before you list trad routes that haven't had bolts added to them you should ask Alan Nelson about the Bacher-Yerian.
    By TBD
    May 10, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    A very, very enjoyable route. It is very height dependant though, my rating reflects that. For me, the crux was the bulge down low, and the rest of the route is fun cranking on jugs. Shorter climbers may struggle through the upper section.
    By Zach Allen
    Feb 1, 2006

    BE CAREFUL on the lower out, especially if top-roping. A 60 meter rope will not reach in the plumb line. Because of the traversing nature of this route, the lead climber starts uphill on a high spot/pedestal, but lowers off to a different spot further down the hill. If the belayer then stands at the downhill spot and belays a climber on TR, the rope WILL NOT REACH when the TR climber lowers straight back down to where the belayer is. I watched a friend get lowered off the end of the rope here.

    Tie a knot in the end of your rope! Always! And a stopper knot, not some weak-ass figure eight. But you knew that.
    By Kyle Turner
    From: Brighton, CO
    Nov 6, 2006
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    11c sustained climbing, minus a subtle rest after the first crux. May feel easier to folks with smaller hands, i.e. the undercling seam is a "jug" instead of a one knuckle crimp. Ain't no way it's 11a :). Great climb all editorials aside. -KT
    By Kenneth Noisewater
    From: San Diego
    Jan 3, 2007

    11c solid (for BC, not Eldo). The first pitch of Global Gorilla just left is solid 11b, and considerably easier.
    Of course if you compare it to Jules Verne, the Edge, Astroman, the whole discussion is irrelevent, bordering on moronic.
    My take on bench mark Boulder Canyon sport grades ONLY is.
    Freewillie -10d/11a (soft)
    Global Gorilla -11b (solid)
    Animal Magnetism -11c/d (solid)
    Empire of the Fenceless (ER) -11d/12a
    Hot Flyer (USR) -12a
    Tell Tale Heart (ER) -12a
    Plan B (USR) - 12b (solid)
    Animal Instinct -12c (solid)

    Of course people disagree on these, but relative to each other, I say it's about right.
    By david goldstein
    Jan 3, 2007

    K. Noisewater's post raises some thought provoking issues about the personal variability of the rating system. In general, I agree with his relative rankings but:

    Plan B is much easier for me than Tell Tale Heart, essentially the difference between onsight and total flail.

    I'm far more likely to fall at the 2nd crux of Animal Magnetism than at any point on The Edge. My approximate lifetime batting averages on these two climbs: AM .250, TNE .970. For that matter, I like my chances less on AM than on any pitch of Astroman except for the hard (traditional) version of the boulder problem.

    Have I crossed the border into full fledged moronism?
    By Kenneth Noisewater
    From: San Diego
    Jan 4, 2007

    I guess to fine tune my point is: ratings from one side of a particular crag to another is a relavent debate, or one end of canyon to another.
    However, to compare two different styles of climbing or two areas, i.e. Yosemite crack climbing versus Eldo slab climbing versus Rifle steep limestone, is comparing apples to oranges.
    Eldo 5.11 does not equal Boulder Canyon 5.11 does not equal Yose 5.11
    Grades are basically area and style-dependent.
    One man's nightmare is another's daydream.
    Just my opinion.
    By Meredith DB
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 15, 2007

    I'm short (5' 5") and found the upper crux considerably harder than the lower one. The lower crux is just balancy.

    Warning: beta ahead.

    Short person beta - for the lower crux - from the decent hold just below the 4th bolt, reach up and left and grab the large sidepull left of the bolt with both hands. Put your right foot on the hold where your hands just were (high step to the hold below the bolt). Then layback/highstep/rock up on to your right foot, reach up and get the finger pocket above the right bolt with your right hand. Next bump up to the jug just above the pocket.

    For the upper crux - work your hands up the left sloping rail until your left hand is on the third decent hold - between the two large jugs lower down and the small crimper further up. Move your feet up to the two decent incut feet, then reach up with the right hand to a small, wet, slimy hold just below a large chalked jug. Hop your left foot up and go for the jug.
    By david goldstein
    May 19, 2008

    This is one of my favorite pitches, trad or sport, in the whole canyon. The section from after the second crux to the anchors is as good as it gets. The fact that I can speak so highly of this pitch despite the fact that it has historically given me trouble is a testament to its quality.

    Note on the rating: anyone below a certain height (185 cm??) will find AM's rating quite solid as the second crux will not involve a long reach to a great jug, but instead popping to the jug from a nubbin which is almost always wet.
    By danelle
    From: Seattle, WA
    Jun 28, 2008

    I agree with the above posters about the second crux and height (I'm sub 5'3). For me, the first crux (down low) was casual, but the second crux was harder because I had to use a slippery hold to reach the jug.
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    Jul 14, 2008

    This is a great pitch. My beta for the lower crux: use the left Gaston to get the right hand in place. Then lean to the right and do the high step to the hold between the 3rd and 4th bolts, but with the *left* foot. Now stand using a laybacky move Gaston-cranking off the right hand. This seems easier than the right-footed high step shown in the middle picture of the 2nd row. Note: if your belayer refuses to follow, cleaning is difficult.
    By Doug Lintz
    From: Kearney, NE
    Oct 20, 2008

    What a fun route, pumpy and tricky. That big hold out left at the first crux fooled me, it felt much easier to move straight up instead of reaching out left.
    By Jesse Huey
    Apr 23, 2010

    I left an Ipod Nano near here yesterday April 23rd 2010 at the base of Animal Instinct, the arete climb.... If you found it, would you please please get in touch with me... you will get infinite Karma points! 4252680126.

    By Phil Lauffen
    From: The Bubble
    Oct 14, 2011

    Best sport climbing pitch in the canyon? I think yes.
    By Toby Butterfield
    From: Portland, OR
    Jun 13, 2012
    rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

    While I can see this route becoming vastly easier once you have the beta dialed, the lower crux is quite sequencey and the long sustained nature of the upper section can really wear you down if you don't do things just so. I actually think that, in contrast to routes like Free Willie which are obviously soft, that Animal Magnetism felt to me more like 11d while I was attempting to onsight it.

    Regardless of the grade this is an amazing climb and absolutely worth getting after!
    By Matt Richardson
    From: Longmont, CO
    Jul 23, 2013

    I agree with Tony's comments concerning - I didn't have much trouble with the lower crux, but the top is more sequency than my tired old self could handle. All the holds are there, so the solid .11 climber shouldn't have much trouble with this. That being said - why all the bolts? It seems pretty protectable throughout most of the climb.
    By Mark Roth
    From: Boulder
    Oct 19, 2015

    Removed some draws off of this yesterday. Happy to return them....
    By Geoff E. Mercer
    From: Worcester, MA
    Jun 9, 2016
    rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

    Simply fucking great!!!!!
    By Preston
    From: fort collins,colorado
    Mar 8, 2017
    rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

    This climb has awesome great exposure and fun moves! I mainly climb in Vedauwoo and up the Poudre Canyon, and for what it's worth, I would say 11a/b simply because of the length of the climb and the pump factor. I think it's only a 11c because it's in Boulder Canyon. No single move was 11+, just sustained 10d. Really it's 5.Fun! Great Climb.

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