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(u) Red Wall
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A Stroke of Brilliance T,S 
Amphetamine Grip T 
Animal Farm S 
Bay of Pigs S 
Bill's Flake T 
Breakdown in Paradise S 
Chairman Mao's Little Red Book T 
Chouinard's Crack (1st Half Pitch of Peking) T,TR 
Commie Pinkos S 
Dances with Clams S 
Dirty Pinkos S 
Finger Puppet S 
Fingers of Fate T 
Flex T 
Gulag Archipelago S 
I Almost Died T 
Lets Face It S 
Moscow T 
Orgasmophoria S 
Papillion S 
Peking T 
Phantasmagoria S 
Pop Art S 
Ride The Lightning S 
Sole Survivor S 
Straight Outta' Peking S 
Super Slab T 
Titanium Jag T 

Animal Farm 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ted Stahl, Jeff Frizzell
Page Views: 1,149
Submitted By: Rod J. on Nov 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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1st pitch of Super Slab is to the right (NW). Bela...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start on top of the 15' boulder around the corner from the start of Super Slab. 1st crux is right off the block. Use a stick clip if there is any question about making the 1st clip - it's a long way back down to the ground. After 40' of typical Smith moves on tuff, you reach the 2nd crux (no more beta here). Finish on the East set of Super Slab anchors. You can climb SS to put up a TR. Good rock as long as you don't go too far left.

Protection 

~ 7 bolts. Rings at the top.


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By another Chad
Mar 17, 2014

Fairly fun climbing with the occasional choss.

Chad
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Sep 22, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fair bit of scary looseness on this thing. I could only recommend it if you have to climb a 5.10 and Bay of Pigs, Let's Face It, Dancing For Clams, and Phantasmagoria are all taken. Super-awkward bouldery move to romping to a single slabby move up high. Don't fall before you make the first clip, or you'll die.
By Erik Keever
Oct 3, 2015

If you've got any sense, you'll look at the funky start, then at the death fall if you make a mistake, and stand on the boulder to take the first clip before climbing.

The funkiness fades rapidly from mind and the rest is fun, IMO. I was actually a bit sad when it slabbed out and finished :)
By Ben Bilbrough
From: Beaverton, OR
Mar 27, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun climb with some varied movements. A little choss here and there on the first couple bolts, but gives way to solid rock. Have to say this climb is growing on me. Have to agree with Erik, wish the middle section continued to the top.
By Tim Gentry
Apr 23, 2017

The first bolt is not hard to clip, you just romp up a 5.4 slab to a massive ledge, step kind of awkwardly onto a smaller ledge, lean a little bit, and clip. Maybe it only felt that way because I have a long reach...

Also not very chossy, I only grabbed one jug that felt suspect, and there was one foothold that I would've really liked to commit to but felt iffy.

Second crux feels like 10c. Pretty sustained 5.9 / 5.10a in the middle with distinct cruxes on the bookends.

It may be a bit difficult to do if there's a lot of traffic on super slab, as it shares one of the rap anchors for super slab.

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