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Upper South Corner Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Action Steps T 
Ambulance Chaser T 
Animal Charm T 
Animal Farm T 
Ape X T 
Baby Steps T 
Blueberry Jam T 
Blueberry Pie T 
Chesty Puller T 
Clash, The T 
Crack of Dawn T 
Crazy Lace T 
Escalator to Heaven T 
Firecracker T 
Fireworks T 
Gash, The T 
Goosesteps T 
Jammer T 
Jug, Tug, & Jam T,TR 
Lil Jam T 
Losing Streak T 
Provando T,TR 
Reproof T 
Riprovando T 
Slash, The T 
SMASH! S 
Stand Your Ground T 
STaT T,TR 
Straighten Up T 
Stutter Steps T 
Tourist Trap T 

Animal Charm 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: 2013
Season: Apr - Oct
Page Views: 47
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on May 19, 2014

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Description 

Unprotected, but relatively easy face moves lead to the horizontal, where a 3" or 4" cam protects a delicate move up the ensuing face, past a bolt, to a sloping ledge, then move right below an overhang to reach the start of a notch stepping up right. Climb up the notch to a left-slanting crack breaking across the steep face and take that crack (crux) to a reach a ledge just right of a spruce tree. A strange move goes straight up the face ahead to reach a horizontal crack. Mantle up and slightly right, then up and slightly left to reach the top.
The crux involves a difficult left hand placement; you may want to tape up. Gear is good but tricky and strenuous at that point.

Location 

This route is also on the uppermost significant wall of the main South Corner Cliffs. Reach this wall by either climbing something on the Jammer Wall or scrambling up the class 3 ramp to climber's left (just right of Stand Your Ground).
Begin just right of the black streak issuing from a wide horizontal crack 15' up.
Descend via rappel off a fixed tree anchor.

Protection 

Standard Adk trad rack. Be careful to set good pro for the crux, as unwise placement risks a biff on the sloping ledge.


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