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The Angry Inch 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jared Nielson
Page Views: 7,330
Submitted By: mattjbudd on Sep 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (174)
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Conditions can't always be perfect. Still gotta ge...


This is a very classic climb. Very steep and fun!! The .11c rating comes from the first 10 feet of the climb. Then after that, nothing is harder than a .11a.


Second route from the left as you enter the pipeline.


Bolts to 2 chains

Photos of The Angry Inch Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Troy Styling up Angry Inch
Troy Styling up Angry Inch
Rock Climbing Photo: Cobble city!
Cobble city!
Rock Climbing Photo: nikki at the top
nikki at the top
Rock Climbing Photo: almost to the chains
almost to the chains
Rock Climbing Photo: itchy cobbles
itchy cobbles
Rock Climbing Photo: The angry inch
BETA PHOTO: The angry inch
Rock Climbing Photo: Angry Itch
Angry Itch
Rock Climbing Photo: This is me (Matt Budd) on the angry inch.
This is me (Matt Budd) on the angry inch.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is my Bro-in-law redpointing this sweet climb...
This is my Bro-in-law redpointing this sweet climb...

Comments on The Angry Inch Add Comment
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By KipHenrie
From: Farmington, utah
Nov 9, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

This is way steep but with huge holds. Climb it like an ape. I believe the name of this climb is The Angry Inch. It is the second climb from left. The climb to the left of it is 11d.
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Nov 9, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Feels like 11a to me
By Nicholas Yaskoff
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I was there with a friend who knew the guy who bolted the route. As mentioned previously the name of this route is "The Angry Inch" and I believe it originally had a rating of 11c. Great climb with a terrific sequence of long reachy moves.
By buckeeb Hart
Oct 13, 2008

Glad I onsighted this while it was still an 11c- Very fun route. Worth doing.

Hey Kip long time no see!
By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Jul 25, 2009

  • This is the second route from the left in the Pipeline.
  • Throught the swath of chalk on the grading cobble it still seems as though local concensus is 11c as far as we were able to tell.
  • 60 feet is quite generous for the length of the route, this rig is no longer than about 40 feet.

Really fun steep climbing on big, positive but greasy cobbles. Probably easier the faster you move or the better you know the route. On this route probably half or more of the holds that you grab are individual cobbles which is rare. Not so many pockets or pebbly cobble holds as on other routes.
By Jason Stevens
From: Ephraim, UT
Sep 4, 2009

FA: Jared Nielson
By Tara Hansen
Apr 21, 2014

I fell in love with this route! Super fun to work and figure out. The beginning moves are the crux. At the last bolt there's a well hidden hand, but if you cant find it just skip the clip and go for the chains!
By Emerson Takahashi
From: Casper, WY
Apr 25, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Easily one of my favorite 11's in Maple.
Skip the last bolt since it's RIGHT UNDERNEATH(less than 20in away) from the chains.

The hidden right hand at the top is sooooo bomber!
By Tom Gnyra
Aug 15, 2015
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

compare this to excavation at the minimum and you don't really have a comparison on quality and grade. I didn't really like many lines at Pipeline and this may be the 'best' one.

Both excavation and angry inch are "classic 11c" climbs but the minimum is good climbing and this climb seems to be like you did a crux and clip the chains as it's over in a minute. I agree with 60 ft being generous and it being about 45 ft. Otherwise you have a really tall and somewhat consistant V0/V1. If you can overhang climb 10d you should be able to finish this short thing.
By Ice4life
From: US
Nov 8, 2016

The pump near the top out was real, at least for me... Holds are all there, big huge jugs and good pockets. People say to skip the last bolt and push to anchor since its right there, but I certainly was glad I clipped that last bolt because I was pumped by the end and barely clipped the mashy hook anchors at the top. Could be because I'm 235lbs and climbed a lot before I did this end of day route though...

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