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Angry Birds 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: David Bruneau at 12b, FRA Sarah Spurrell at 5.12c
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 297
Submitted By: David Bruneau on Jun 19, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Drop the Mental Ledge and "Angry Birds" ...

Description 

This is an excellent, hard climb up one of the cleanest faces in Flatrock. It starts on the ledge on top of P1 of Drop the Mental (5.9 trad).

Start at the left side of the big ledge. Climb to a small ledge 3 feet above the belay ledge and step right to a bolt (easy but a little creepy, optional hand sized cam here). The climb weaves up the face from here on interesting moves. There is a 2 bolt anchor with no rap hardware after 65 feet of climbing.

Above here is very dirty 5.6 climbing leading eventually to the top of the cliff and another anchor with no rap hardware, it is 100 feet to the belay from this anchor.

Location 

Off Drop the Mental ledge

Protection 

7 Quickdraws + Anchor. Pre-Hanging the draws by rappelling in is a good strategy. I will eventually put in a 2 bolt rappel anchor at the top of the climb.


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By Sarah Spurrell 1
Sep 30, 2015

Helmet is a must--there is no loose rock on the route but a substantial amount just above it, generally the size of baseballs

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