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Angry Birds 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Langston and Justin Edl
New Route: Yes
Season: Not Winter
Page Views: 934
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jul 22, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Angry Birds.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Those damn green pigs stole your eggs. Fire yourself at them, kill them all, they will pay.

This route is such a surprise. It has bomber protection, is very un-Vedauwoo movements, and is loads of fun.

It definitely feels easier the more you do it, it's 12- for the onsight. I could see sneaking through all the cruxes after your 14th TR burn and calling it 10d. Do that if it makes you feel big.

Location 

It is 15 feet left of Eagle Brand and uses the same anchor, too.

Protection 

#4 and 5 BD stoppers, and a few finger-sized Aliens. Be sure to double up on either #0.75 Camalots or orange Aliens. There are two key placements in that size on this route. A #4 could be placed, but it's a pain, don't bother. The only specific beta is to bring a blue Alien/purple Mastercam and place under the roof. It'll allow a bomber placement and not fill up your hand holds.


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By JNE
Jul 22, 2011

This is a really cool route. Great rock, great position, and interesting movement. This climb is very uncharacteristic for Vedauwoo. So if you are sick of all the burly cracks and in a mood for something a bit sportier, you should check this one out.
By Davin Bagdonas
Jul 25, 2011

This route is indeed a great route and very worthwhile. Well done as it is nice and long compared to most Vedauwoo routes of this nature.

But, not so sure it's an FA. I climbed it back in 2001 or 2002 to confirm a suggested grade (similar to what is posted here) with Aron Bender and his friend John (will look up his last name). They had been on it as a project during their college years and had claimed to have climbed it. They did climb it on TR after I had done it to confirm things. They were under the impression it was climbed before them as they were given directions to it.

In any case, a great route! Nice work and I'll do a bit of research to post here in conclusion. Any help out there would be awesome.
By JNE
Aug 1, 2011

Davin, get that info and we will post it up. If it has been TR'd, then it has had a free ascent....
By Drew Thayer
From: Denver, CO
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route is super fun, has lots of tension sequences, and actually protects well with Aliens and C3s. So if you've got an itch to lead it, go for it! A bomber purple C3 can be placed from a press stance in the ledge/bulge feature halfway up, and a solid #1 Camalot comes a move later. As stated, place small gear in the roof to leave the handholds open. Save a couple fingers pieces for the top, this one makes you keep fighting....

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