Approaching the bulge while bolting P3.
UPDATE: a team of climbers, including Alex honnold, came to Angola in late 2015. They climbed a few of the routes and areas shown here on mountain project, plus added a couple of nice lines. The video has some great footage of roadside attraction at pedra escrita, torre nlundi and a brief cameo of stegosaurus. They also added a nice one pitch crack in Conde, a new crack at pedra escrita and a vegetated multi pitch chimney in waku kungo. Definitely some beautiful shots of the rock and country side.
Welcome to Angola. If you can manage the visa process and gain entry into this country, then prepare yourself for a wealth of unclimbed rock and incredible adventure climbing. Angola has a wide variety of climbing options from multi-pitch granite domes to sandstone sport climbing and amazing conglomerate towers. And for the most part, it is completely untouched territory. If you are a foreigner in Angola, you are probably here for work, so most of the directions are based out of the capital, Luanda. If you are lucky enough to get a job down South, well, I'm jealous. The weather here is generally warm/hot and the best time to climb is the Austral Winter (May-Sep), which also happens to be the dry season. So far, only a few dozen routes have been done here to my knowledge, as the climbing community is rather small (5-6 of us on the high end) for a country the size of the entire SW United States. Expect beautiful climbing in places that will re-define your concept of seclusion. Almost none of the areas have permanent trails to the rockface, so bring a machete and your navigation skills, and expect to re-cut trail to find the base of even established routes. Trails that we cut months prior are completely gone when we return after the wet season. Access so far has been pretty easy, as long as you respect local culture and speak to the village chief (soba) prior to starting the approach. We have done a pretty good job of building relations with the local villages near the best areas, so the general attitude towards climbers/foreigners should be positive.
Flights from Europe, Asia and South Africa. Visa process can be complicated if you don't have a job here, but some tour companies can arrange a tourist visa for you if you want to come. There is also a direct flight from Houston for those who work in the oil industry or for the embassy. From Luanda, most areas are 4-5 hours drive time, making weekend trips complicated, but not impossible.
Gear: For trad routes, a standard rack will do, with doubles up through #2 camelot. For most of the routes described here, it is worthwhile to bring removable bolts to use as intermediate protection. Although this is not an alpine environment, the routes are remote enough and the climbing very much 'adventure climbing'. In order to accomplish some of the first ascents, removable bolts were used not only to bolt the routes, but also as lead protection on easier terrain. The holes were not sealed up for this reason, so carrying a few 1/2" removable bolts is highly recommended for these routes. If you are going to go through the effort of getting to Angola to climb, it's definitely worth the extra money to buy a couple of removable bolts to ensure you can finish all the routes and increase the safety factor in an area with little to no medical coverage. You do NOT want to get hurt here, especially at some of the remote locations where the best climbs are.
Objective Hazards: Almost all of the routes listed here are off of any sort of trail. Be very wary of snakes. Outside of the areas listed here, there are plenty of other huge rocks just begging to be climbed. Just check with the local village for the status of any landmine clearing in the area. A lot of clearance work has been done, and most of the climbing areas were never mined (mostly along rivers/roads, near cities and near military installations), but it's still worth double checking.
For additional information on other routes (in Portuguese), see climbinginangola.blog.com
. I will eventually add this information to Mountain Project over time.
Climbing Season For the Africa area.
Weather station 1.1 miles from here
30 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Angola
Bare Hug Arete 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Africa
: ... : Torre N'lundi - Sentinel To...
A striking line up the blunt, NE arete of the Sentinel Tower. Our "mega project" during our two week romp through the country. Unfortunately we had only had 3 days at Pedras Negras, and it took two full days just to bolt this line. Leaving only our final half day to attempt the first pitch. The first pitch starts with a little hop to gain a sloping jug, then up the obvious crack-like feature, stepping left as it peters out and gaining a semi-restful stance under the bulge. Then its a V8ish crux ...[more] Browse More Classics in International
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jun 3, 2014
Wow! I was wondering when some of Angola's spectacular rocks would show up here. Anyone climbed those features in the vicinity of Lubango, like Tundavala or Leba?
By Pat M
Jun 4, 2014
Some South African guys climbed a couple of pitches near the overlook at Tundavala (from what I can tell from the video). It's on youtube. That was back in 2007. They also did one of the towers opposite Torre N'lundi in Pedras Negras. Some of the best potential is down in Lubango, Serra Da Leba and other areas in the South. It's drier, cooler and easier to access. The problem is that I live in Luanda and it's 12 hours drive.