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Angling Angels T 
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Chicken Rodeo T,TR 
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Gumbyland S 
Hatchet Crack T 
Heaven's Gate T 
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Hook Variation, The S 
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Knobs to Gumbyland S 
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Mind Blow T 
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Schoolroom West T 
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State of Confusion T 
Stone the Crows S 
Talus Food S,TR 
Unknown Slab Route S,TR 

Angling Angels 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: 2007 Anthony Angelo Calderone, Angela
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 884
Submitted By: Mountain Dreamer on May 15, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Angling Angels

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb straight up a dihedral toward an obvious bush on a ledge. Climb a bolt-protected slab with chicken-heads on it to a 2-bolt station on a lower angled section of slab. Stop here to belay or blow by this. Angle slightly left, up tiered slabs, to a steeper wall with 2 bolts on it. The crux is a chicken-head mantel move, as is common on many Calderone routes. Belay at a 2-bolt station.

Location 

Start from the 2-bolt station at the very top of the Bushwhack Crack route. Rappel the route. Then rappel the Heaven's Gate route.

Protection 

Mostly bolts. But 1.5" to 3" cams will be useful.


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