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Anglin n' Danglin' 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 350', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: prep: Dave McRae FFA: Dave McRae & Alan Collins 11-29-2016
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 605
Submitted By: Dave McRae on Dec 6, 2016

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Alan follows the FA on the surreal fourth pitch of...

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  • Description 

    Anglin n' Danglin' is a fully bolted sport climb with sustained 5.11 climbing and mind blowing position.
    Start at the bolted anchor on the left side of the main ledge.

    P1. 5.11a. 30 feet of chossy 5.6 leads to better rock in a left facing corner. 8 bolts. 90 feet.

    P2. 5.11b. Sustained stemming in a right facing corner. Avoid the obvious descent anchor above the ninth bolt, and step left to a hidden anchor at a good stance. 9 bolts. 80 feet.

    P3. 5.10d. Straight forward face climbing leads to a comfortable ledge. 5 bolts. 40 feet.

    P4. 5.11b. The money pitch! Crank on the ever steepening flake to a crux at the fourth bolt. The difficulty eases only slightly as you angle n' dangle your way across an exposed traverse to the anchors. 9 bolts. 80 feet.

    P5. 5.8. A utilitarian march to the summit. Tread lightly as you follow a path of cleaning scars to the top. 70 feet.

    Descent: four rappels with a single, 70 meter rope. From the anchor atop P4, rap to the descent anchor atop P2. Or, scramble off the back.

    Location 

    Hike up the gully between the Monument and Anglin's Buttress for five minutes. Where the rock stairs turn to a polished slab, look up and right for a 30 foot section of 5.4 protected by a single bolt, leading to the main ledge.

    Protection 

    Quick draws and runners. No pitch has more than nine bolts.


    Photos of Anglin n' Danglin' Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: finishing the traverse
    finishing the traverse
    Rock Climbing Photo: topo for Anglin's Buttress
    BETA PHOTO: topo for Anglin's Buttress
    Rock Climbing Photo: Tyler doing prep work on pitch 4.  He eventually r...
    Tyler doing prep work on pitch 4. He eventually r...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Alan follows the FA of pitch 3
    Alan follows the FA of pitch 3
    Rock Climbing Photo: Taken from the hidden anchor atop p2.
    Taken from the hidden anchor atop p2.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jazmyn on the FA of Anglin n' Danglin's se...
    Jazmyn on the FA of Anglin n' Danglin's se...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jazmyn on the first pitch.  Anglin n' Danglin&...
    Jazmyn on the first pitch. Anglin n' Danglin&...

    Comments on Anglin n' Danglin' Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Alan Collins
    From: Bend, OR
    Dec 9, 2016

    This is an amazing line, the best multi pitch Ive done at Smith Rocks! While there still is a little grit on the feet and a few crumbly hand holds, it will clean up with a few more ascents. Close bolts make this route very user-friendly and easy to enjoy. Both the 2nd and 4th pitch are unbelievable. I would highly recommend this route to anyone who climbs 5.11 and wants to get their adventure on.

    Really nice work Dave!!
    By bradyk
    Aug 6, 2017

    Got on Anglin' n' Danglin' today and was very pleased with the climb. I agree with Alan that pitches 2&4 are standouts, especially 4. Nice addition to Smith multipitches, Thanks Dave!
    By Charlie Egan
    Oct 11, 2017

    This thing is a blast.
    By Daniel Bookless 1
    5 days ago

    Good stuff!!!
    The money pitch is exhilararing

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