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Angle of Your Woody?
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Feb 16, 2016
I am about to embark on building a home wall, but am not decided on what angle(s) I want to commit to. Everyone raves about 45 deg. but that is much steeper than anything I find myself on in the real world. I am looking to train power and power endurance, but my home crag is Smith Rock, and bouldering is not my focus, so I am hesitant to go super steep. I am curious if anyone has a "magic angle" at which they to train for slightly overhung sport routes with small holds? Gus Wathen
Joined Jan 28, 2010
0 points
Feb 16, 2016
Hey Gus,

Before everyone says go look at the "what does your woody look like" thread, I'll share my two cents from another Smith local. 45 Degrees is too steep to mimic almost all of the climbing at Smith, but that is often the best way to maximize your surface area to get the most climbing space.

20 degrees would be just about perfect IMO.

I do a fair amount of bouldering, so combining the desire for some steeper stuff and max surface area for my space I went for 38 degrees.

If you haven't already read Mark Anderson's advice Here , then you really should.

Have fun!
Paul Trendler
From Bend, Oregon
Joined Sep 22, 2011
43 points
Feb 16, 2016
Twenty-five degrees is great for small holds; 50 is my favorite steep angle. Stephen Felker
From Boulder, CO
Joined Nov 30, 2009
310 points
Feb 16, 2016
Thanks for forwarding that Anderson website Paul. Looks like a good place to start. I have some ceiling space, so I am thinking one sheet at 15 and one at 30. Gus Wathen
Joined Jan 28, 2010
0 points
Feb 16, 2016
read this: blog.trango.com/the-anatomy-of...

my advice: if the wall doesn't have to look pretty (means you don´t have a wife that will complain for having a piece of plywood with shapes attached in your leaving room, bathroom, or wherever). and the angles will not pass de 30. make it angle adjustable. by the simplest way possible (old climbing rope, or chains behind).
now on the how to ? part...

Go to the what does your woody look like thread.
llanSan
Joined Aug 21, 2014
0 points


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