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Angle of the Dangle 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Kelton Rappleyea ~ 9.25.07 (Prep. M. Seidenschmid)
Page Views: 2,185
Submitted By: Dustin Brubaker on May 22, 2009

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Pulling the lip on Angle of the Dangle. Photo by S...

Description 

Exhilarating exposure & position! Navigate your way up to large roof crack. Punch in bomber gear (small tcu or ball nut/s). Layout, jam, then crank past the cruxy lip. Keep your composure and finish on the bolted headwall (optional piton).

Location 

East-end trail drops down at Mordor Wall/Alcove. Located at the right side of alcove, directly below large roof/crack.

Protection 

Bolts & Small gear (thru roof)


Photos of Angle of the Dangle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the roof of Angle of the Dangle. Photo by...
Starting the roof of Angle of the Dangle. Photo by...

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By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
May 21, 2016

I'm planning to work this over the summer, so I've placed fixed draws/gear on the bolts and anchor for the summer. Cool route for sure, looking forward to the send! As far as the cam, I found a .5/.4 offset X4 is absolutely bomber and doesn't interfere with any of the jams. (that is, until someone stole it recently. :/ )
By another Chad
Apr 12, 2017

Sorry to hear your cam got pilfered Micah. I'd like to give AotD a try this summer. Not having any offset cams, is there anything else that will substitute well? Is that the only gear?

Chad
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Apr 12, 2017

You can place a 1" cam deep in the 2nd hand jam, but I found that for me anyway, it interferes with the best hand jam and makes the move a little more difficult. That's all I've found, unless you want to jam a 5" into the wide part, but that's also kinda in the way, and set back a bit far for rope drag and the whip from the crux.
I wouldn't recommend the ball nuts or #00 small cam (as mentioned in the original description. If that cam blows while you are pulling the face crux before the next draw, you are most likely hitting the deck from 35' up. I'm already more than halfway to the ground on the whips with the current cam holding.

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