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Angle of Repose 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tomi and Jim Howe 1990
Page Views: 1,921
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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BETA PHOTO: Angle of Repose


This line of bolts is the second line of bolts as you continue around the corner from Blockbuster. It has 3 bolts a huge ledge and three more. The crux is down low, but getting off the ledge can give people trouble too. Beware of ankles from falling at bolt 4.


After the face turns back to SE facing from NE facing there are three bolted lines accessed from the ramp. This is the middle line.


6 draws and two for the chains.

Photos of Angle of Repose Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zeb at the crux.
Zeb at the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: W/o lines
BETA PHOTO: W/o lines
Rock Climbing Photo: 1) Angle of Repose 2) Calling All Karmas
BETA PHOTO: 1) Angle of Repose 2) Calling All Karmas
Rock Climbing Photo: Crux is down low
Crux is down low
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost to the ledge. Photo: Boris Yaworsky
Almost to the ledge. Photo: Boris Yaworsky
Rock Climbing Photo: On the upper face.
On the upper face.
Rock Climbing Photo: Zeb at the ledge.
Zeb at the ledge.

Comments on Angle of Repose Add Comment
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By Nicholas Yaskoff
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a superb route with a technical feel. It would easily be a three or four star route at any one of the more accessible crags in the canyon. Enjoy the thin edges and the extremely fun moves on quality quartzite.
By Ryan Stott
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2011

Good warm-up for the area. Precision footwork is definitely the key. Make sure you enjoy the views from the top.
By MarkJ
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 20, 2012

Some holds on the initial block (first three bolts) are loose/hollow. Glad there is new hardware to clip.
By dnaiscool
Apr 22, 2015

Be careful how you position the belayer. A fall low could lead to a collision. Watch that second clip, a fall with a hand full of rope could put you on the slab. Terrific route with solid, vertical edging and positive crimps.
By JSaarela
From: Park City
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Thin for the first 3 bolts, crux for me was clipping 5th bolt. Just couldn't seem to find the feet. The fall onto the 4th bolt is not bad, but be aware of the potential to deck on the ledge (fell 3 times going for 5th clip and was still a couple feet above the ledge each time). Great view of Sundial from the anchors.

After cleaning, rappel past the belay station to some talus to avoid the scramble back down the slab.

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