REI Community
Select Route:
Angels Way S,TR 
Childs Play T 
Devil's Slide T,S 
Phantom Crack T,TR 

Angels Way 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 89'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: John and Ian Gregory
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: ClimbFit on Nov 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Here is a topo of the route.


This is an amazing route; it goes right the widest crack/chimney on the face. It is a very challenging and difficult route but one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed. You will use just about every climbing move that you know. There are actually 3 crux on this route. The cruxes are at the overhangs. The "crux" is at the giant block/chockstone in the middle. The only thing that I disliked about the route was that it was extremely dirty, a few times I had dirt fly into my eyes. The dirt in the crack really can't be cleaned out though.

Some people have expressed their dislike of this being a bolted route. John Gregory had it bolted because there is not many places in the chimney for bomber placement. Further more. John says that you will need 5 or more six 4 and bigger cams to trad climb it. It is hard to find one cam that size in the UAE let alone 5.


This route follows the widest line up the face. It is route number 4 on the topo.


This route is a sport route with brand new bolts and hangers. There are abseil anchors bolted at the top. You can also climb this route on TR.

It is a tight chimney so I advise taking off any unnecessary gear of your harness. I also do not recommend trying to trad climb this route.

Photos of Angels Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting around the first overhang.
Getting around the first overhang.
Rock Climbing Photo: I would say that this route has two possible crux'...
BETA PHOTO: I would say that this route has two possible crux'...

Comments on Angels Way Add Comment
Show which comments
By massimo
From: Manerbio
Dec 22, 2010

It is great pitch! almost a lot different style of climbing in 30 meters !!!
By Ren
Jan 2, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This route was like a game. You had to use a lot of strategy and every move was different. I hardly used the same moves more than twice.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About