|Type:||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C2- [details]|
|FA:||George Hurley, Bill Forrest '78|
|Submitted By:||Furthermore on Nov 18, 2014|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Angel's Fear||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Dougald MacDonald
Mar 20, 2016
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1+
This is a very good tower route, engaging and varied, with mostly good rock by Valley standards. We did it in three pitches (recommended):
Pitch 1: Very short, straightforward aid. Followed free at mid to upper 5.10.
Pitch 2: Led free at low-end-ish but sustained 5.10. Many interesting sections and decent pro, with emphasis on small cams (tiny to 0.5). Surprisingly, it felt like the crux was near the top, in a good but awkward hand crack. Save something small to protect the overhanging exit grovel (we went right). This is a fun lead, and it it were on Castle Valley rock it would be a renowned pitch, but....
Pitch 3: As described here and in guidebook. Walk to the east past bolt anchor to fourth-class step onto pedestal. Poor bolted anchor below roof (better to belay 20 feet down on ledge). Short section of overhanging aid, traverse left, and then follow fun diagonal crack back right to the top.
Descend the route with two rappels (and reversing 3rd class traverse). A single 70-meter rope is fine. A single 60 probably won't reach the ground.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Nov 18, 2016
As Dougald commented, this is a great VOG route!
We freed the 1st and 2nd pitches. The 1st went around 5.10+. The rock and gear was decent I thought, with the most difficult moves involving some body english in the weird corner just off the ground, followed by intermittent fingerlocks and flat edges on both sides of the mini-corner. The 2nd pitch was fun and mostly good rock, although there were some large hollow features you climb on and around. I think it would be spookier to aid some of these sections.
The anchor below the roof on the 3rd pitch looked ok, two relatively new 3/8" wedge bolts that seemed solid.
I would take less gear than the recommended rack above if you plan on freeing P1 and P2. Maybe (2x) green C3-#2 BD with triples in .3-.75 size, (1X) #3-#4 BD. Ballnuts were definitely not needed; we didn't place anything smaller than a green C3.