REI Community
Glacier Point Apron - Right
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel's Approach T 
Apron Jam T 
Apron Jacked T 
Balance Bitch T 
Balance Boy T 
Cold Fusion T,S 
Edge of Token T 
Endless War T 
Garden's Edge T 
Green Dragon T 
Green Dream T 
Lonely Dancer T 
Micro Maze T 
Mr. Natural T 
Point Beyond T 
Point Beyond Direct T 
Slamdance T 

Angel's Approach 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Tom Higgins et al
Page Views: 1,601
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jun 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Randy decided to ditch his shirt and the pack. Na...

  • Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron MORE INFO >>>
  • Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Combined with "Point Beyond Direct" and "Point Beyond", this route is the equal of "Goodrich Pinnacle." Clean and pure slab climbing!

    P1 - (5.9) - follow the bolts upwards. About half of these were replaced in 2008. As you approach a large solution hole either traverse right (easier), or tag the hole and then traverse right. Belay at a two-bolt anchor near an overlap.

    P2 - (5.8) - more friction up the left edge of some flakes. Move up to a passage between two opposing thin flakes, right of the major overlap. There is decent finger-sized gear here. Continue up the flake to the right to another two-bolt anchor.

    P3 - (5.7) - more friction up and right to Lucifer's Ledges.

    Location 

    Start by getting to the Point Beyond. Left of the Point is a water groove. Just to the right of the groove is a line of bolts heading up towards Lucifer's Ledge.

    Protection 

    Mostly bolts (about half of which were replaced by the ASCA in the summer of 2008), but you will also want nuts and cams to 2".


    Photos of Angel's Approach Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Randy on P2
    Randy on P2
    Rock Climbing Photo: From left of "Point Beyond", up the slab...
    BETA PHOTO: From left of "Point Beyond", up the slab...

    Comments on Angel's Approach Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By jplaut
    Oct 24, 2012

    Although this route is technically not runout enough to warrant an "R" rating, it should be noted that the first bolt is around 25 ft. above the belay and a fall before clipping it would likely result in decking on the ledge. And, after that, the bolts are not very close together, maybe 15ft. apart at least. Be very confident on 5.9 slab before attempting.
    By Ryan K.
    Oct 13, 2015

    Quality route. Protected well at cruxes. There are 25-30 ft traverses between the last bolts and anchors on pitches 1 and 2. 5.7 or 5.8 if you go the proper way. R rating in those sections.

    Mountain Project

    The Definitive Climbing Resource

    MTB Project

    Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

    Powder Project

    Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
    FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About