REI Community
Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel Left T 
Angel right T,TR 
Angel: On the Stairway to Heaven T,TR 
Butterfly T 
Little Plum T 
Zero for Conduct S 

Angel Left 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 767
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jun 16, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Angle (5.6) follows the crack corner in the middle...


Start at the base of the right hand wall looking up a slab and a right-facing corner.... Follow the corner up till the wall gets steep.... At this point, you can protect well and step right and following the path of least resistance back left and to the top of the cliff.... The holds reveal themselves as you climb and most of them are jugs of high quality....

The coolest thing is that you can't see what your next move or piece is until it's in your face, so it's a fun onsight....

I once climbed up this route to find 3 teenagers that were so stoned they were having trouble understanding where I had come from...So I told them that I just appeared....



Start at the base of the right hand wall looking up a slab and a right-facing corner....


Standard rack....

Comments on Angel Left Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jay Morse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jul 4, 2017
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

If you do this route as described, you will have to hyper-extend and/or back-clean many of the lower pieces and the pieces in the corner in order to make rope-drag manageable for the upper portion. Because of this, I think the climb is effectively PG13 in a few areas. Particularly at one very committing move that is a bit tough in the grade and had tricky protection shortly after you start the upper traverse (Bring a small cam - BD#0.2 or Metolius Blue Mastercam).

Double ropes would be ideal on this route.

We did not try approaching this climb from the right side instead of climbing the corner crack, but it seemed like that may be a smarter choice from a rope drag perspective.

Rounded glue-in bolts on top

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About