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East Face - 1st Tier
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Angel Dust 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Mark Rolofson, free-solo, '83 (rehearsed on TR) - pins later added by another climber.
Page Views: 670
Submitted By: Bosier Parsons on Nov 8, 2008

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Here you can easily see the first pin, but I can't...

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The crux is low and is well-protected, though getting to the first pin may prove challenging to some. Above that, the climbing to the next bolt is still a little challenging. This bolt with the shiny hanger is deceptive. It looks like a nice new bolt from the ground, but it's actually an old and poorly positioned bolt, with a hanger that doesn't lie flat. If fallen on, it is likely the hanger would lever the bolt out, in which case you would now be looking at a groundfall. The climbing above this is much easier, but also run-out to a third piton high on the face.

Overall, this route is fun, but not great, but the crux is only a couple moves and is well-protected. I give it a PG-13 rating based on the condition of the 2nd bolt.


This route is on the First Tier of the East Face of Keyhole Rock. From the north, as you hike down and south from Easter Rock along the base of the wall, locate a huge, dead stump. The route begins just left of this. Look for a pin, and a shiny bolt hanger above that. Rappel or walk-off to the south. There are also large trees for anchors to top-rope the route.


3 quickdraws. Trees for anchors.

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