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Angel Dust 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 254
Submitted By: e Dixon on May 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (43)
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Shady spot....


P1 - start up the corner, move right and follow the broken crack system to a bolted anchor near a large tree.

Variation: towards the top of the pitch, take the offwidth on the right and finish at the same anchor.

P2 - climb the smaller crack on the right with a small tree in it.

Variation - climb the offwidth on the left which rejoins the standard line.


This route starts in a right-facing corner a little to the left of Byrd's Classic.


Standard East A rack - #3 Camalot. Bring a big cam if doing either of the OW variations.

Photos of Angel Dust Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin on Angel Dust. His first trad lead.
Kevin on Angel Dust. His first trad lead.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 30, 2015
By Jeramiah Paylor
From: Westminster, CO
Sep 21, 2007

There is also a line to the right of the corner doing a 5.8 finger crack variation.
By Kevin Sainio
From: Durango, CO
Jun 20, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Watch for the loose block about 25 feet up. It has been there for years so it is probably not going anywhere but be careful anyway, its a big one.
By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Sep 19, 2009

Really fun route. I'd call the start harder than 5.7 though, especially for short people.
By chosspector
From: San Juans, CO
Apr 17, 2011

This route is an ever-loosening pile. Save the effort and do Byrd's Classic instead.
By Xander Wyckoff
From: Tucsies
May 30, 2011

What do the corner and the offwidth go at? They don't feel like 5.7....
By Dylan Weldin
From: Athens, OH
Jan 31, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Pile came down today.... Kevin and Chosspector were right :) I pulled off a few hundred pounds of rock today while seconding. The giant block first shifted under bodyweight (it appeared to be a solid jug that anyone else leading the route would have yarded on) then came down under a few pounds of pressure as I rappelled. The remaining crack appears suspect (i.e. wobbly).
By Bill Grasse
From: Carbondale, CO.
May 14, 2012

Whaaaat?! This climb is freaking AWESOME!!! A classic for sure!
From: Northern, NM
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Just climbed this route, and the start is not 5.7, but the rest of it is for sure. Try both variations to see what you think, the OW variation is not 5.7.
By Nolan Robertson
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Think stembox.
By Patrick Yarbrough
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 12, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The hardest part of this climb is probably just getting off the ground. Otherwise there are some very fun moves for being 5.7. I'd say it's worth doing.
By Gary N
From: Durango, CO
Aug 23, 2014

Pitch 2 is pretty fun and worth doing at least once. Wish it were longer. Better than pitch 1 in my opinion. We continued up above pitch 2 for a 3rd pitch. Wide hands through an overhanging bulge. Felt 5.10-ish (PG-13).
By TrevorRoulstin
From: Durango, Co
Oct 30, 2015

I think the first big flake on this route is sketchy at best. At the top of it, I found it quite unnerving when a solid hand jam literally bent the flake outward! Tread lightly, my friends.

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