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Graining Fork Nature Preserve (a.k.a. Roadside Crag)
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Andromeda Strain 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. Snider, J. Bronaugh, 1984
Season: Shaded, sometimes damp.
Page Views: 6,874
Submitted By: Tony B on Oct 11, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (53)
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Such an amazing route. Photo: Chris Drover

Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit MORE INFO >>>

Permit Required 

***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website.
This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.


Great climb in the dry season, but can get a little damp in the wet ones. Start on easy moves to get into a huge corner with a handcrack. Jam and stem up the crack through sustained moves to reach the top. Belay and rap from webbing on trees, and if still present after all of these years, a small stopper placed in a horse's skull.


Go around to the far left and of Roadside Crag. This obvious, huge, right-facing corner is past the long slab in front of you but will appear in the distance and guide you in.


A standard rack with a few extra hand-sized pieces.

Photos of Andromeda Strain Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Erik just starting up Andromeda Strain.
Erik just starting up Andromeda Strain.
Rock Climbing Photo: Katie on what may be the crux of Andromeda Strain....
Katie on what may be the crux of Andromeda Strain....
Rock Climbing Photo: I had no idea what I was about to get myself into....
I had no idea what I was about to get myself into....
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian's jamming?  Here's the proof.  He's about ha...
Brian's jamming? Here's the proof. He's about ha...

Comments on Andromeda Strain Add Comment
Show which comments
By cjdrover
From: Watertown, MA
Nov 11, 2009

In addition to the webbing on the tree, there is (as of 11/2009) a two-bolt anchor with chain and a rap ring at the top of the route.
By J tot
From: Tempe, AZ
May 16, 2010

A stiff 5.9. I personally thought it was a little over-rated.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 15, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5-star fun thin hands jamming- mostly #1 camalot sized, although a green and a couple of golds also fit in there.

This route is not .10a, it's .9 at most, especially if you compare it to Rock Wars' upper section.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 7, 2011

Oddly enough, Having done Andromeda Strain and Rock Wars including the upper section multiple times each, even on the same weekends, I would have said A.S. is the harder route.
I suppose it may come down to hand size or climbing style.
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 17, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

No move on this route is a 5.10 move. The climbing on this route is a lot more physical than Rock Wars and less physical than Autumn. Classic route, though. Loved it.
By Andrew G
From: Silver Spring, MD
Jun 8, 2015
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a significant step up in difficulty from both Autumn and Rock Wars in my mind. Bring as many #2's as you've got!

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