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Andromeda Strain 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dave Davis, Don O'Kelley and B. Andre, November 1971
Page Views: 1,436
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 31, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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fun climbs right by the road


Start to the right of the crack, face climbing past a bolt, to join the crack which is followed to the top. One star out of five.


The obvious crack between McDonald-Wilson and


Gear to 2.5 inches including the belay

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Rock Climbing Photo: I believe this is Andromeda Strain, as my memory s...
I believe this is Andromeda Strain, as my memory s...

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By C Miller
Feb 10, 2004

Oddly the FA party chose not to start the crack directly and placed a bolt on the face to the right. The direct start is worthy and slightly harder at about 5.8.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Mar 1, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Did this one yesterday and thought it ok. Easy to protect, small nuts worked great! (Don't load it up! This is a short one). Pretty much easy going most of the way. I chose not to protect the majority. Two thirds up good idea if you did not protect below, as a fall from that point could mean trouble. Fun warm up!
By Infernal Doom Fanatic
Oct 1, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun, worth doing but not that memorable. There are some short and sweet moves, but it's basically your typical J-Tree watershute climb.
By Blitzo
Oct 16, 2006

This is one of the only, somewhat worthwhile routes in the area.
By seamstress
Dec 28, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I was told that something broke off at the bottom and now the start is a 10a (but with a soft sandy landing). There isn't much to hold onto and the feet are all smears. The first time we tried this, several years ago, I couldn't do the start at all and needed a boost from my belayer. You can also put in a very small nut and use it to french free that move. But once you are off the ground, the moves to the bolt are below 5.7. This is a great climb for a cold day and a nice climb for a new-ish leader. If you include the first move, think of it as a 5.9.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Dec 30, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It's a slab start, I don't see how anything could break off. If someone is going to call that a .10a you're going to need to build a gym around the rock and put tape on the holds. As of today, it was all of 5.7, though the start is probably a bit less.
By Patrick Callery
Dec 2, 2013

The route is closer to 100' if climbing to good anchors near the top. Spraying aside, be prepared for a cruxy start and then easy climbing to the bolt. True crack start is tricky and also worthwhile.
By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Nov 10, 2014

Just tried to lead this and couldn't get off the ground. The start feels 5.9, no pro.