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Andrology T 
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Dynamometer T,S 
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Slabbed Up-Side da Head S 
Unknown S 


YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Andy Brown, Bernard and Robert Gillett, 1997
Page Views: 13,275
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 17, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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At the crux of Andrology. September, '13.


From pre-2009: Andrology is an ultra-classic line on a gorgeous piece of rock. In its previous state, a top rope rehearsal was highly advised for the 30 foot runout to the first clip, since the first bolt had been chopped. This start was "ankles for sure" if you blew it getting to the first clip.

Andrology follows a series of huecos and exciting face climbing up the longest and steepest part of The Fin, and it puts everything else to shame in terms of high quality face climbing. Andrology is one hundred times better climbing than the area classic "Edge of Time". Two things happened to make this line become one of the best 5.11+ routes in the Valley (Estes!!): the start was retrobolted in 2009-10 to match the rest of the route. Second, the double bolt anchor on top got new chains to clip from the top of the face. This set up a bee-line rap to the ground using a 60 meter rope. Andrology is a terrific piece of climbing, and it deserved the trivial amount of effort required to turn it into what it should be. N.B.: the huecos are a bit sandy, so watch the feet.

Per Jon Lachelt: near the top, the bolt line veers slightly to the left, and then you follow a thin seam back to the right to reach the chains.


Originally, you needed ten draws and several mid-size Camalots to protect this and the bolts were over the top. Also, it is possible to scramble to the top of The Fin to set up a TR.

Per Jonathan Siegrist: my father and I added chains to the anchors of this route so that you can lower off instead of having to walk off.

Per Jon Lachelt: Camalots are no longer necessary to lead the route.

The current bolt count is pending, so bring more than 10 quickdraws to lead the route!


This is the steep line just right of the arete, Edge of Time. It is the leftmost bolted line on this face.

Photos of Andrology Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations.  Upda...
BETA PHOTO: Jurassic Park, showing the major formations. Upda...
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrology, great line!
Andrology, great line!
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrology (5.11d).
Andrology (5.11d).
Rock Climbing Photo: Tommy Caldwell cruising up Andrology.
Tommy Caldwell cruising up Andrology.
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrology.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ending the small stuff and getting ready for those...
Ending the small stuff and getting ready for those...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian Dory stylin' on Andrology.
Ian Dory stylin' on Andrology.
Rock Climbing Photo: At the upper crux on TR. Cool shot lookin' down Th...
At the upper crux on TR. Cool shot lookin' down Th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Making moves on Andrology.
Making moves on Andrology.
Rock Climbing Photo: Addison Duke cruising.
Addison Duke cruising.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Burdon on Andrology. 2010.
Mike Burdon on Andrology. 2010.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cold day on Andrology. Where was the sun!?
Cold day on Andrology. Where was the sun!?
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrology, The Fin, Jurassic Park.
Andrology, The Fin, Jurassic Park.
Rock Climbing Photo: Speck on the wall.
Speck on the wall.
Rock Climbing Photo: Allie enjoying herself.
Allie enjoying herself.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian Dory enjoying the middle of Andrology.
Ian Dory enjoying the middle of Andrology.

Comments on Andrology Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 13, 2017
By Matt Juth
From: Evergreen
May 9, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The first bolt has been replaced. It is still very exciting, with long but safe runouts. Still crunchy also....
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
May 30, 2004

The fourth bolt can currently be moved around a little bit in its hole (not just the hanger, but the bolt itself). I'm not sure a fall onto it would be a wise idea. Although the climbing on this pitch is quite good, in my opinion the rock quality isn't that great.
By Joel Larner
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 24, 2005

The bolts on the top can be used for setting up a top rope, but bring lots of extension. I used a 20' cordellette (spread to 3 bolts) plus 4' sling to get the rope over the edge.

This route is long, impressive, and quite pumpy.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jul 16, 2007

Just got on this yesterday (7/15/07) and the 4th bolt is definitely loose. The combination of the loose bolt and the hollow rock makes this very sketchy, and I wouldn't trust the bolt to hold a fall. The moves above the bolt are not to hard though and the 5th bolt is very solid. If someone replaces the bolt, they should probably put in a 6" bolt to try and get past the crappy rock on the surface.
By Jonathan Siegrist
From: his truck
Aug 12, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yesterday my father and I added chains to the anchors of this route so that you can lower off instead of having to walk off.

Finally this fantastic route can be enjoyed without the f*$king hastle of walking off/not being able to pull rope or TR, etc.
By John Calder
From: Spokane, WA
Aug 24, 2007

I thought those chains looked new. I was there on the 17th of this month, and thought, damn these things are shiny!. Thanks for doing that.
By Bryant Noble
From: Carbondale, IL
Dec 3, 2007

Stellar route. I did it around June of 2007. Glad to hear there are chains now. I can't wait to be back someday to get the redpoint. The quality of rock on this route is definitely a drawback, but with a few new solid bolts and a little more traffic to clear off the dirtiness and loose holds it could be an uber classic. I ripped off a big flake in the gully at the top and almost shattered my belayer's skull. Might want to wear a helmet for this one belayers.
By SteveZ
From: Denver, CO
Jul 3, 2009

The fourth bolt is still loose (again, not just the hanger but the bolt itself) as of 7/1/09. I don't really know how to fix such things.... The chains up top are really handy though, thanks for putting those on!
By Patrick Kehoe
From: Fort Collins
May 22, 2010

They fixed all the bolt issues. These runouts are as safe as it gets. The rock quality isn't perfect, but I don't think it will cause you problems.
By brain damage
Sep 12, 2010
rating: 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R

Wow, this is one of the best climbs I have been on, I give 5 stars. Super sustained, and very pumpy. Tiny crimpers for a ways then jugs for climbing. You need a great head for lead climbing, climbing the bolts is super sketch, sometimes 15 foot runouts. Probably a hard 12 in Boulder Canyon.
By butlerbt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 13, 2013

This is an awesome pitch, clean and continuous climbing. I wouldn't call it sustained though: a lot of 5.10 climbing interrupted by a 11c lower crux and then the 12a crux right at the last 2 closely spaced bolts. The bolts are spaced out, but they are where they need to be. Because of this though, I would offer a warning to most of today's "5.12 sport" climbers: this isn't Movement.
By Steven Andrew King
Jun 10, 2014

Broke a left handhold between 5th and 6th bolts today and kicked off some kitty litter throughout. Shouldn't effect the difficulty of the route much: still a fine line despite the fact that many of the holds are hollow and decomposing. Apparently the current weight limit for the ride is 185 lbs. I promise to go on a diet before attempting again.
By Jon H
From: MD/DC
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I went up Andrology today and found it to be WAY harder than I remember it right between the 5th and 6th bolts - just where the hold broke. I would easily put it up with any 12b in Boulder Canyon. I'm 6'2" with a +2 reach and still had to high step up above my waist and lock off, then make a MAX extension reach to get to the good crimps above. Unless I missed something, this got a significantly harder... probably 2 letter grades, IMHO.
By Jim W.
Sep 14, 2014

Ripped a crimp off up and left from the third bolt making the section a little harder. Make sure your belayer is wearing a helmet. The chunk would have done serious damage if it had hit someone. There are only 7 bolts, so bring your lead head. Don't let the airy bolting scare you off. This is an amazing line. Do it.
By Ethan Saffer
From: Loveland, Colorado
Oct 27, 2014

FYI everybody, I was on Andrology today, and it seems that someone has decided to remove those awesome chains from the top of the route, leaving a nasty surprise mantle at the top for anyone wanting to send. I hope the chains come back soon, they were pretty handy.
By Jon H
From: MD/DC
Dec 15, 2014
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Welp, someone owes Jonathan Siegrist about 12' of chain. Now that the topout is a mantle, I'd say it's definitely crept into 5.12 territory.
By Kelly Cordes
Apr 4, 2015

Super lame that someone took the chains. No idea why anybody would do that to a sport route in a sport climbing area, etc. Anyway, I bought new chains, and Mike B. and I re-installed 'em. Should be good now.
By Hiro Kurotsuchi
From: Colorado
Jul 11, 2015

Well, there are chains at the top now.

There was much talk today about a foot which is now gone at the crimpy section at the upper part where it starts getting steep. This is my first time climbing it - it's the feet/foot you need to get past the pair of same-height crimps.
By Brian Treanor
Jul 23, 2015

What a fun route. Excellent movement. The hollow rock around the fourth bolt is, I admit, concerning; however, I'm not sure how one would fix that other than sinking in some massive 3/4 inch thick, 12 inch long anchor like some of the odd anchors I've seen in Europe. The whole area around the bolt rings hollow, so simply moving the (normal) bolt a little be left or right isn't going to do anything. The climbing to the fifth bolt is, as others have pointed out, not very hard compared to the real crux above; but it is a bit runout by sport climbing standards, and I do think a fall is possible just below the 5th bolt for someone climbing at her limit. Oh well, if you are looking at MP, you will know what you are in for. It's an amazingly fun line; but I'd recommend not falling big, or at all, on the 4th bolt. The upper crux is very short and not to bad if you read it right--a very onsightable route (though it took me two tries to get it).

EDIT (based on comment below): Whoa. The change must have just happened, as a week ago the last bolt was still way out left. Seems like an odd change. I'll check it out this week.
By Jorge Lassus
From: Puerto Rico
Aug 13, 2015
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13

After the bolt changes and the line now going to the right at the very top, I think it's safe to say it's much harder now. Brother sent it on our last go at it, and we think it's around 5.12c range.

I would not fall on the 3rd or 4th bolt. We placed a small yellow cam. I believe it was between the 2nd and third and another once you reach the big rest before the crux section because of the sketchy bolts.

4th bolt can be moved down and to the right about a foot were the rock sounds/feels solid.
3rd bolt needs to be reevaluated and the 1st bolt is coming of a bit....

Aside from the anxiety the bolts gave me, it was the highlight of the trip.
Big up for this line! 5 stars.

P.S. Never tried it going left, but the new ending is jam packed with technical crimp action to a monster jug. A+.
By Buster Jesik
Sep 29, 2015
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I agree that the "New Andrology" feels harder then the old line. Smaller holds and more sustained climbing. Felt 12b to me.
By Mike A. Lewis
From: Estes Park, CO
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I didn't do the route when it went out left at the top - only the straight up version - but I'm really psyched someone added bolts and made it go straight up - what a great route, a direct and aesthetic line. Clipping the last bolt makes it way harder for me than skipping the last bolt. Agree with others - 12b/c range.
From: Nederland, CO
Nov 6, 2015
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13

12b/c for sure. Felt harder than all the other Colorado 12b's I've done.

There is a fantastic "moment of truth" in the last 10-15 feet. Move quickly and confidently on small holds and not so good feet and the victory jug will be yours! Beautiful finish to a beautiful route.
By J. Niles
Jun 13, 2017

Wonderful, intuitive movement with plentiful opportunities to rest before punching the thin, techy crux. One of my favorite single pitches of climbing to date. DO IT.

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