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West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
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A Cut Above T,TR 
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Whiplash T 

Android Tilt 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mike Brooks & partner, 1980s
Fixed Hardware: 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 180
Submitted By: Tony B on Jan 12, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Starting the crux.

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  • Description 

    This route is another addition to the "Obsure Tour" list that several of us are making. Not even Rossiter has it quite right in the books, as there is no bolt anywhere on the line or near it.

    On the West Ridge, about midway between Xanadu and Chockstone, there is a broken face that goes up to a 10' tall, shallow dihedral, which faces more or less, left. At the top of this dihedral is a triangular roof, which is passed on the left to reach a tree, growing in yet another shallow left-facing dihedral.

    Although the seam of the dihedral offers no pro, there is a splitter thin-finger to finger crack on the wall at the left of it. Take several pieces to place in this section, as it will likely be your only pro for the crux, and it is reasonable.

    Passing the roof is the crux, and after that you can either continue up moderate climbing until you reach a ledge to walk to a rap (as for Xanadu) or make a rap somewhere on your own. The tree in the route seemed OK, but I did not personally test it.

    The moves are fun, and perhaps a shade hard at their grade, but the crux is short. Although it is a reasonably fun route, there are certainly more worthy routes nearby, and I wondered at how this route managed to get a star (1/1) in the book.


    The first part of the route is easy (below 5.8), and I didn't really protect it. As the route approaches difficulty, there is a finger crack in the left side which can take protection.

    The bolts/chains at the top above the ledge now facilitate a 75' rap or an easy TR off of a few draws. This TR is particularly handy for the 5.11d "Tilt Right" that exits the roof on the other side.

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    By M. Morley
    From: Sacramento, CA
    Nov 9, 2003
    rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

    Short, but fun and a worthy tick if in the area. 1-1/2 stars. As Tony mentions, don't look too hard for the bolt noted in the Rossiter guide. It doesn't exist.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Dec 3, 2010
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    I wouldn't call the crack a "finger crack" unless you have infant-sized fingers. The crack does take 00 and 0 C3s quite well though.
    By Brent Apgar
    From: Out of the Loop
    Mar 11, 2012

    No one had mentioned it. But there is a 2 bolt anchor w/ chains at the top of this route. At least as of March 2012.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jan 25, 2015

    This climb has cleaned up quite a bit in the last decade. It is still a little thin in places unless you take very small cams (i.e. black Alien/red Camalot Jr.).
    I'd give it 1-2*s on lead, 3*s to follow. We did it today in front of a bit of a crowd and seemed to generate a lot of interest in it, and that is a good thing. This climb deserves more traffic than it gets.
    By D. Snyder
    From: Golden, CO
    Oct 14, 2016
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    This is a worthy little pitch if you're in the area. Fun moves and good protection with a rap anchor at 70'.

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