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Andouille Arete T 
Secret Slit, The T 

Andouille Arete 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b R [details]
FA: Andrew H Stone and Kurt Bethke 5/28/16
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring or Fall
Page Views: 218
Submitted By: Andrew H. Stone on Apr 22, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Top of 2nd pitch, 3rd pitch and rappel horn.

Description 

P1: Start at the point where the arete rises from the forest floor. A few slabby moves lead to good gear and then a jug studded fin of rock leading into the sky. Eventually you will reach a small tree at the base of a stack of detached blocks. Belay here, 5.6. P2: As I wanted the line to stick the very edge of the arete I tackled the death blocks. A few small chunks came off and dropped toward my belayer, but the larger blocks stayed in place. A safer line can probably be found by traversing to the right. Above the death blocks I found fun climbing on unique features. Eventually you will reach a low angle area with a few small trees. Belay here, 5.6. P3: Climb low angle rock until you reach a prominent rock horn, 4th Class. One 60 meter rappel from this horn will get you down to low angle scree from where you can walk back to the base of the route.

Location 

The start of the route is downhill and southeast of the pass at 35.7282, -105.4216. This pass can be gained by hiking up Bear Gully and bearing right, but the easiest approach is to gain the pass from the east by hiking up the Hermit Peak Trail and then leaving this trail around the 8400 ft contour line and traveling cross country to the west.

Protection 

Mostly small nuts and a few cams. Mother Mountain is stingy when it comes to protection.


Photos of Andouille Arete Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A closer look at the rappel horn.
BETA PHOTO: A closer look at the rappel horn.
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower half of second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Lower half of second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch from the other side of the approac...
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch from the other side of the approac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view of the start of the route.
BETA PHOTO: Another view of the start of the route.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch.  Juggy bliss into the sky.
BETA PHOTO: The first pitch. Juggy bliss into the sky.
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the route.  Up the short slab and dir...
BETA PHOTO: The start of the route. Up the short slab and dir...

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