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A Guide to Ragged (1964) T,TR 
Aid Crack T 
Ancient Way T 
Angle of the Dangle TR 
Animal Crack T 
Ashtray TR 
Bald Face Hornet T,TR 
Birdman TR 
Black Orchid TR 
Bombay T 
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Broadway T 
Bushy Groove T 
Cage, The T,TR 
Carey Corner T 
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Chopper flakes T 
Crag Rat TR 
Crisis T 
Cutting Edge T,TR 
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Deception T 
Double Crux T 
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Duck Soup TR 
Easy Rider TR 
End Run T 
Eternity TR 
Faceout T 
Fall Of The House Of Monticello, The TR 
For Madmen Only T,TR 
Golden Age TR 
Green Gutter T 
Hangnail T,TR 
Hangover TR 
Hemlock Groove T 
Hot Rocks T,TR 
Hurricane Gloria T,TR 
Jam Corner T,TR 
Juniper Wall T 
Knight's Gambit T 
Knight's Move T 
Kor Crack T 
Lavaredo Corner T,TR 
Left Edge T 
Leftover T 
Main Street T 
Marlinspike T 
May's Way T 
NCS Route T 
Netherlands TR 
North by North West T 
North End T 
Nux Vomica TR 
Obsession T,TR 
Out Of Orbit T 
Owl Perch T 
Poison and Passion TR 
Pork Barrel Project T,TR 
Ragged Edge TR 
Right Edge T,TR 
Sandbag TR 
Side Entry T 
Sisu T 
Skull and Bones T,TR 
Subline T 
Sunday Bulge T 
Swan Song TR 
Sweat Slot T,TR 
Terminal Velocity T,TR 
Tower Crack T 
Trojan Horse T 
Un Petit Peu TR 
Unconquerable Crack T 
Vajolet Corner T,TR 
Vanishing Point T,TR 
Vector T 
Visions TR 
Visitor's Reception Center TR 
War Eagle T 
Wet Wall T 
Wetwall Wetlock Variation T 
Wiessner Crack T 
Wiessner Slab T 
Wishbone T 
YMC Route T 
Unsorted Routes:

Ancient Way 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
Page Views: 4,219
Submitted By: John Peterson on Feb 22, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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View from the top


Ancient Way is an excellent easy route at the Main Cliff. It is located at the left edge of the ledges atop the Cave Slabs. Find Unconquerable Crack / Subline and go through a short cave to the left. Then boulder up a few moves to the ledge on the next flake over. Belay at the left end of this ledge. The route takes the left-facing dihedral / crack to the summit.


Medium to large nuts / cams

Photos of Ancient Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the top
Near the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Ancient Way
BETA PHOTO: Ancient Way
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Ancient Way
Leading Ancient Way

Comments on Ancient Way Add Comment
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By Devin Krevetski
From: Northfield, VT
Oct 11, 2010

one of the first routes I led at Ragged, scared the bajeezubs outta me. I was unaccustomed to easy routes being so steep.
By M LaViolette Jr.
From: The Past
Oct 20, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I heard CT had some hard grades. This would be an easy .6 in other places I've climbed. The first piece is a little weird as the crack flares inwards and outwards, other than that fun and well protected.
By Allan Nadel
May 30, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

I led this over the weekend, and I agree with both of the of the previous comments. I do most of my climbing at the Gunks, and I think this climb is definitely harder than Horseman 5.5. Maybe I was missing all the good stances, but I found it strenuous enough to place gear that I didn't want to hang out forever. Also, there is a bit of a scramble up to the base of the climb with one or two 5th class moves.

Having said that, if you're solid at 5.5 you'll love this climb. It does take a lot of gear, I used mainly big cams, the rock is solid and you can stem, jam, or use face holds. Next time I'm in CT I'd like to do it again in better style.
By Jim Shippee
Jun 29, 2012

led this route today and loved every min of it. Def made me hesitate about my next move. A little flared in the beginning but great gear after. Great overall led and fun moves.
By Simon L
From: Hartford, CT
Oct 6, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Nice fun route, just got to take your time looking for the next holds and maybe run your pro out a bit to the next bomber hold and placement rather than hanging on trying to place something.
By A.wilk Wilk
From: Olympia, WA
Dec 6, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

All the other comments are spot on. The beginning is a little hard to protect but after that there is plenty of gear. Great climb with good stances to place pro and lots of fun moves in between.
By James F King
From: Avon, CT
May 18, 2016

The Falcon guidebook describes this as "a good beginner route". I disagree, since beginners usually aren't good at hand jamming or placing gear one-handed.
By Matthew Brode
Apr 17, 2017

Classic Ragged route. If a beginner, I'd start with Knight's move as there are some sketchy hand placements at times with the crack. However, good P2 throughout and a fun climb altogether. Placement can be flared at times; recommend getting far into the crack and using alpine draws to reduce drag.

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