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Ancient Via Ferrata 

YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: Easy 5th French: 1+ Ewbanks: 3 UIAA: I ZA: 5 British: M 1c PG13 [details]
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Page Views: 603
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Sep 10, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: S Matz about 2/3rds of the way along the Via Ferra...

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Description 

This "route" (which is not in the current guidebook) was recommended to me by a world-traveled climber as a "don't miss". While most technical climbers could easily solo it, an uncaught slip would certainly be fatal. It is most interesting climbed with a short rope and about 5-6 long "alpine draws". (We used a 50M 8mm doubled over for 80ft, which seemed about right). Unlike maintained Via Ferratas, there are no cables to clip into along the way and the steel rods that do exist are suspect due to age.

START- See "Location" for approach. To get to the start of the Via Ferrata continue only another 40-50 ft beyond where the path reaches the Upper Slabs, and then go straight up on talus to the base of a open-book corner of black rock with two iron (steel?) "L-beams" overhead [photo], only one of which is still connected on the right side.

P1 - EITHER climb the black corner (5.0 - 5.2) and then exit right by going up between the L-beams [photo],...OR, scramble up the grassy buttress and balance ACROSS the L-Beams! (I have no idea how to rate this!) 30 ft.

P2 - P3 - P4 - P5 etc. Follow the "yellow brick road" (well, actually the brown, rusted iron road) on a long, rising diagonal to the right, placing protection for the follower(s) after any tricky moves. After the last, short 3-4 ft horizontal ladder (there's only one this small) look to continue right for a while, but then cut back left to more open rock (fewer bushes) to the summit.

Descent - Follow the south hiking trail (towards Jordan Pond) off the summit for about 75-100 yds, and then you can cut back to hiker's left and get onto the talus and back to the base of the Ferrata and Upper Slabs. [As part of your approach to the climb, you might consider walking up to this point (it's only about 150-200 ft beyond Upper Slabs) before you do the climb so as to be able to recognize it.]

Location 

On the loop road park at either Bubble Rock parking (and walk about 5-10 min south on the main trail towards Jordan Pond) or park 1/4Mi. south at a much smaller pull-over lot.
From the pull-over lot, walk down the stone steps, join the main trail and walk south (left) 75-100 feet to a well worn climber's path on the right. Up to the climber's register.
The path moves up and left on talus, reaching the cliff at Lower Slabs. About another 50-75 ft and you are below where a 20ft scramble leads to the base of Upper Slabs. To get to the start of the Via Ferrata continue only another 40-50 ft and then go straight up on talus to the base of a open-book corner of black rock.

Protection 

about 5-6 alpine draws


Photos of Ancient Via Ferrata Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: S Matz emerges from climbing up through the L-Beam...
BETA PHOTO: S Matz emerges from climbing up through the L-Beam...
Rock Climbing Photo: The START - note the "L-Beams" across th...
BETA PHOTO: The START - note the "L-Beams" across th...

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