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Ancient Chinese Secret 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Aaron Rough
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 729
Submitted By: Rough on Mar 1, 2009

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Description 

Take the center line up the clean shield of rock below the roof. Climb up increasingly smaller feldspar bands until the roof where an easier than it looks move gets you over the bulge to the anchors. One of the best 11as around if you ask me!

Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors


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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

7 Bolts, chain anchors share with neighboring route. Best route on wall, crimpy face leads to well protected roof. Favorite for the day.