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Apr 24, 2009
I don't think having 2 quick draws stacked on top of each other.. either parallel or perpendicular to the rock is that great of an anchor. lots of side to side or out and in movement could lead to an open gate scenario. If i couldn't make something work easily with either 2 QD's or 1-2 of the shoulder length slings that i might have on my harness then i'd be threading the anchor and TRing off of it. and not really feeling bad about it.

i'm a fan of side by side or at least have 2 chains ending in side by side links.

I don't see the advantage to having the single ring style for a sport route. cost or otherwise. The other set ups in this thread are easier to replace with many of the others.

if you like people coming up to your anchors and going "aww what a freaking pain in the ass" that's cool.
Jake D.
From Northeast
Joined Nov 23, 2006
355 points
Apr 24, 2009
I would have to agree with Ron on the horizontal alignment of bolts for sport anchors. Many beginning sportsters only have quick draws of equal length from an online sport climbing package deal and a limited understanding of equalization. Make it easier for them. I usually use quick links hooked to biners or chain: biners for straight forward set-ups that might see a lot of action, chain for possible rope drag issues over ledges etc, and sometimes both. Those mussy hooks look like fine pieces though... two of those to lower off of probably equals one fixe ring for ridiculousy's—I mean redundancy's—sake. I have used metolius rap hangers for low visual impact anchors on trad lines; they are probably not the best for an often used sport area. Regardless of what you choose give it a good rock colored spray paint. I usually use a grey primer base coat, a rock color matching second round, and then a light speckling spritzer to it a natural look. Bryan Gall
From New Castle, CO
Joined Sep 15, 2002
255 points
Apr 24, 2009
Here is an anchor I found today halfway up a cliff in the Poudre.
I guess it held once!
Rock Climbing Photo: Rappel anchor found in Poudre Canyon
Rappel anchor found in Poudre Canyon
Greg Hand
From Golden, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2003
1,665 points
Apr 25, 2009
is that a pair of scisors? gimmesome roy
From alpine, ca
Joined Oct 7, 2006
75 points
Apr 25, 2009
Ron, good point on the hassle of rigging a TR setup on the Fixe trad anchor. I mainly climb sport and I know I never carry a sling on my harness along with with my quick draws.

Looks like I'll go with what I've used before. Thanks for the input.
Matt TeNgaio
Joined Jun 11, 2007
180 points
Apr 25, 2009
I too prefer the side-by-side bolt configuration for sport, when possible. It's easy to set up TRs and it's easily replaceable. One of the things I don't like about the Fixe Trad Anchor for sport is that what do you do when it's time to replace the ring. It's a lot easier to carry a wrench to open up a quick-link than bringing up a hack saw or bolt cutter to replace a ring. However, I do make regular use of vertically oriented anchors for sport climbs when the rock dictates it. Just the other day I was putting an anchor in on a new climb and the rock was just kind of "funky" with weird bulges and such that made it hard to get a nice side-by-side setup. Hence, I used a vertical orientation. When I do I typically use a Fixe Ring Anchor or a regular hanger with a link and rap ring on the bottom. And, on the top I use a regular hanger with a link and chain to equalize with the bottom. If it's really high traffic I put a link on the bottom of the chain so it's easily replaceable and a little thicker than the chain. The Fixe Ring Anchor can be nice for the bottom hanger because it's still possible to clip into it at multiple points but it's even easier to do so with a regular hanger and a link and ring. Michael Schneiter
From Glenwood Springs, CO
Joined Apr 3, 2002
6,105 points

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