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Anchor Cordolette: Figure Eight Ends or Continuous Loop
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Apr 5, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: it's me
For your belay anchors, do you:

Option Alpha: rock the method with figure eights on each end

OR

Option Beta (bet you thought I'd say Bravo): Tie it off with triple fish's and use the continuous loop method?

Poll Style!

J
Jeff Harmon
Joined Mar 15, 2016
125 points
Apr 5, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere on Prusik Peak.
Depends on the anchor, but I typically close the loop with a flat overhand. Am I going to die? Nick Sweeney
From Spokane, WA
Joined Jun 8, 2013
672 points
Apr 5, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: We shall continue with style
I go with the 8's, when I use one. Just clip both 8's to one biner and you have a loop if ya need to BigB
From Red Rock, NV
Joined Feb 18, 2015
311 points
Apr 5, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: I'M THE F***ING KING OF INTERNET CLIMBING BRAJ
Yes Burcheydawwwwwwg
Joined Jan 9, 2012
1,271 points
Apr 5, 2016
Nick Sweeney wrote:
. . . I typically close the loop with a flat overhand.


This.
Crispy.
From Chicago
Joined May 23, 2014
72 points
Apr 5, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: High Exposure
Neither. Leave it untied. If I use a cordelette, I tie the ends into the masterpoint knot wivanoff
Joined Mar 3, 2012
409 points
Apr 5, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt Shasta summit
My cordelette has a figure 8 on each end. Works great if you build an anchor with 3 or 4 pieces of pro that are spaced and you need a lot of cord. I used a closed loop for a while but haven't gone back after I switched to the figure 8 on each end. Chase D
Joined Apr 27, 2015
214 points
Apr 5, 2016
No tim
From Boulder, CO
Joined Aug 6, 2006
60 points
Apr 5, 2016
Closed loop if you clip into the "shelf" above the knot. Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
2,617 points
Apr 5, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Jose Cuervo Fruitcups dirtbag style
wivanoff wrote:
Neither. Leave it untied. If I use a cordelette, I tie the ends into the masterpoint knot


This. Pre-tied cordelettes are dumb.
doligo
Joined Sep 26, 2008
412 points
Apr 5, 2016
Jeff0 wrote:
For your belay anchors, do you: Option Alpha: rock the method with figure eights on each end OR Option Beta (bet you thought I'd say Bravo): Tie it off with triple fish's and use the continuous loop method? Poll Style! J



Does how you tie it depend on the thickness of the cordolette? I was under the impression that the lower diameter cords should be doubled up if used as a cordolette?

Can anyone comment on this?
matt c.
Joined Nov 19, 2009
154 points
Apr 5, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere on Prusik Peak.
Matt, if your cordalette is so skinny that you don't trust a single strand, then it is not strong enough. The greatest advantage of a cordalette is flexibility in how you can build anchors. If you can't use a single strand going to a far-away piece, then you negate the primary benefit.

In my anchors class, we discussed the minimum amount of force that a belay anchor should be able to hold (the numbers escape me now). After this discussion, I looked up the strength of the 6mm cord I was using, and upgraded to 7mm after realizing that 6mm isn't *quite* enough for my own comfort level.

Regarding the pre-tied vs untied debate, I leave mine untied because I find myself frequently making funky anchors... one such monstrosity on the N face of Dragontail Peak consisted of a 10cm ice screw, a picket, a small nut and a .5 c4, all of which were equalized. Versatility is key!
Nick Sweeney
From Spokane, WA
Joined Jun 8, 2013
672 points
Apr 5, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: it's me
Bryan Manning wrote:
I go with the 8's, when I use one. Just clip both 8's to one biner and you have a loop if ya need to


Good call!
Jeff Harmon
Joined Mar 15, 2016
125 points
Apr 5, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
I keep mine tied off in a loop with a fisherman's. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
178 points
Apr 5, 2016
fig 8s Nathanael
From Riverside, CA
Joined May 27, 2011
257 points
Apr 5, 2016
What I usually do:
Nick Sweeney wrote:
I typically close the loop with a flat overhand.


What I'm trying to learn to do:
wivanoff wrote:
If I use a cordelette, I tie the ends into the masterpoint knot
Jonny d
Joined Jan 7, 2011
42 points
Apr 5, 2016
Nick Sweeney wrote:
Matt, if your cordalette is so skinny that you don't trust a single strand, then it is not strong enough.


Alternatively, couldn't one use a low diameter cord but always use it doubled up? Like in a loop configuration?
matt c.
Joined Nov 19, 2009
154 points
Apr 5, 2016
matt c. wrote:
Alternatively, couldn't one use a low diameter cord but always use it doubled up? Like in a loop configuration?


Yes.
But at that point I'd use a 240cm dyneema sling like those made by BD and Mammut. You're already giving up some flexibility so you might as well get the real weight savings. I use one of these slings more often than I carry a proper cord, but it doesn't have the flexibility.
Nathanael
From Riverside, CA
Joined May 27, 2011
257 points
Apr 6, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Somewhere on Prusik Peak.
matt c. wrote:
Alternatively, couldn't one use a low diameter cord but always use it doubled up? Like in a loop configuration?


You could, but why would you? Like I said, that removes the versatility of your cordalette.
Nick Sweeney
From Spokane, WA
Joined Jun 8, 2013
672 points
Apr 6, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: High Exposure
Jonny d wrote:
What I usually do: What I'm trying to learn to do:


Here's one way:


Here's the way I usually do it:
mojagear.com/learn/2015/04/09/...

Leaving it untied allows me to figure 8 or clove then ends, tie the ends into the masterpoint, tie a quad, use it for rap tat. Versatility to do whatever I need.
wivanoff
Joined Mar 3, 2012
409 points
Apr 6, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: en route to wham ridge  Photo by Carl Schnitker
I keep mine in a quad for bolted anchors. If they anchors aren't either bolted or a tree, it's usually multi-pitch and i'll use the rope. On the rare occasion I find a gear anchor for single pitch i'd probably untie the quad and use it end to end with cloves instead of figure 8s eli poss
From Durango, Co
Joined May 9, 2014
422 points
Apr 6, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: After a very very damp and cold evening climbing o...
Chase D wrote:
My cordelette has a figure 8 on each end.

^what i currently do.
Nick Sweeney wrote:
typically close the loop with a flat overhand

^what i used to do
I go for 5-6mm cord depending on the objective, 6mm for cragging, 5mm for everything else.
that guy named seb
Joined Oct 24, 2015
182 points


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