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Anchor-Building Question
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Nov 15, 2011
Hey MP, the other day a friend and I were working on some anchor-building techniques, and he built his anchor like in the pictures here. I have never been taught this way, not have I seen people teach this way. After looking at it, I couldn't figure out a reason why it wouldn't work other than it makes it harder to tie a knot to make the anchor redundant because the cord is halved. What's your guys' input?
Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor 1
Anchor 1

Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor 2
Anchor 2

Rock Climbing Photo: Anchor 3
Anchor 3

Now I didn't tie a knot for redundancy, but you get the point.
Matt Hasenohr
Joined Nov 22, 2010
17 points
Nov 15, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Batman Pinnacle
If you tie a knot for redundancy, it's fine. The only problem is that you'll need double the length of cord versus clipping a single strand through each biner. Scott O
From California
Joined Mar 30, 2010
76 points
Nov 15, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: After you get done climbing be sure to head up to ...
I use that method when when I am at a 2 bolt anchor except I just use the rings instead of passing the bight through the biners. The only time I use the biners in this manor is when I am going to have to pull the rope through the rings to rap. That way you dont have to worry about nylon on nylon friction. Does that make sense?

edit: and yes I tie a figure eight for my master point.
Adam Paashaus
From Greensboro, North Carolina
Joined May 20, 2007
824 points
Nov 15, 2011
agreed with scott--you need to tie it off to maintain for halving it--if you were at a stance in which you wanted to shorten your anchor (keeping your belay device high is more comfortalble, etc), you could halve it. if you wanted to lengthen your cordelette and therefore lower your anchor point (for example, if your pieces were all several feet above you), then you'd only clip one strand of your cordelette thru the biners....

cool, your anchor looks good.....
Joined Sep 9, 2009
70 points
Nov 15, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Dog Safety
along with having to double the amount of cord you're using that'll probably make tying the master point knot a pain in the ass since there will be so much cord in there. it will work, but probably not worth it. also, if you dont have an exceptionally long cord your anchor might be impossible to make if your anchor points arent close together. in short, it will work but probably isnt the best method for every case Marc R
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 4, 2010
20 points
Nov 15, 2011
Thank you all! Matt Hasenohr
Joined Nov 22, 2010
17 points
Dec 2, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: high e
Matthew J. Murphy wrote:
Forget about an actual "factor fall" soon as you weight those brass hooks this anchor is blowing.

From NJ
Joined Aug 16, 2011
94 points
Dec 2, 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: mike
I personally would not use this method being that you have to tie a knot. Without the knot any one strand breaks and this anchor fails (already mentioned). My reasoning is that I use the sliding x pretty often and I don't want to accidentally not use a knot when I really should have. But out of curiosity you mentioned two different ways to build an anchor but I only see one? thecornyman
From Oakland, CA
Joined May 18, 2010
150 points

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