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Amora Gedel (Addis Ababa)
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A Supposedly Fun Climb I'll Never Climb Again TR 
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Anbessa 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Nico Jah, Elad Omar
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 79
Submitted By: nicojah on Oct 26, 2015

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The crux corner between 9th and 10th bolt

Description 

The start of this climb has two options.

If you're climbing on a 70 meter rope you start from the bottom of the mini rock tower leaning against the wall. Climber goes up left hand side and will see a first bolt on the main wall.

If you're climbing on a 60 meter rope, the belayer and climber will have to get up on the mini-tower ledge, and it's easiest to do so by climbing the right hand side of the mini-tower. There is a big space for the belayer, and the first bolt from this side will be visible, about 1.5 meters up.

Anbessa: Reachin the head wall, climb the first section on a series of cracks and jugs, go through a crimpy section to another jug and then up a crooked column that you can wrap your arms and legs around. Shimmy up to the pointy Owl's Ledge (9th bolt). Take a breather and attack the corner arete-crux with the power of the ANBESSA or Lion in Amharic.

Location 

You'll find Ambessa quickly, because it's the first sport climb as you walk from the Main Wall towards Cracked Wall. You'll probably see the bolts which go up a face and then reach a ledge and go up a corner arete to the anchors. There is a 7 meter mini rock tower at the base that you have to climb before reaching the headwall.

Protection 

11 quickdraws
70m rope
2-bolt fixed anchor


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Rock Climbing Photo: Climber near the top!
Climber near the top!

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