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Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B

Type:  Boulder, 8'
Original:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
Page Views: 921
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Mar 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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A one-move dyno problem on the Balance Boulder. Start with a sidepull crimp for your right hand and a slopey crimp seam for your left. Get your right foot on a chip practically underneath the boulder and dyno (crux) to a horn at the lip. Top it out.

Keeping the right foot on can be tricky for some. At one point I wound up on my back underneath the boulder.


Atop the hill, the Balance Boulder is hard to miss. When walking towards it from the other boulders, this problem is on the left side. The horn at the lip is easy to find. Once on top, head left and jump off.



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By andyscott
From: Massachusetts
Mar 5, 2010

It can also be done in more than one move by making use of the sidepull/crimp underneath the jug first, holding a hard barndoor, then moving to the jug. I guess this beta is only suggested if you are not as long and it is harder to reach the jug in one move. It worked for me. Keeping the feet on is still tricky however. But this problem is not the best and the right hand sidepull starting hold ruined my fingers.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 4, 2013

and i did it yet a different way... sit start, left hand gastone (where bryce had his right), right hand crimp... high right foot, 2 moves to the top... V7ish this way i thought... not a great problem any way you do it...
By Noah Doherty
From: Nashua, NH
Jun 21, 2013

there are so many crimps to start on it is wierd. I used this little slopey crimp sidepull for my right hand and the sloper crimp dish for my left. I used the little edge under the boulder for my right foot and heel hooked/ hugged around the corner to control the dynamic move to the horn. what sucks about this problem is that once you stick the dyno, your body kind of just slaps and limply hugs the boulder.
I think i tried what you did lee, but found it hard to keep from barn dooring.
I thought it was pretty fun and very simple once you decide on start holds.
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Aug 29, 2013
rating: V7 7A+

I have to agree with Noah. There are literally so many options for starting hand holds that it's confusing. I did this problem via just about every method suggested. They all felt around the same, and they all felt a lot closer to v7 than v8.

More of a slight squat start unless you're really tall or you stack several pads.
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
May 22, 2014

Anasazi around 1:45:

By Graham O.
Sep 22, 2016

The only way I tried it was by going to the thin crimp prior to the lip (the way shown in the video). Pretty, bland, sharp, and awful that way, but I assume it's more fun by just hucking straight for the lip.

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