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Anasazi Blancos are officially back 2017
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Jul 30, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
m.epictv.com/media/technical/f...

From the horse's mouth (five ten rep)! What do you guys think? I know there are some die-hards on here, which was what got me interested in the shoe in the first place. Cosmetically, looks like they dropped the orange which is meh, but the cushioned tongue is a definite plus. I could see the new midsole being controversial, but I've liked similar designs (sounds like Sportiva's P3) and have definitely noticed a difference in shoes that lack it (looking at you, my flat Evolv Shamans!). Also, I've always been curious about how the shoe ends up being so "aggressive" without a downturned last or toe. I've seen pictures of people climbing some pretty steep stuff in them, and even bouldering...does the heel tension effectively make up for the flat last?

I'm eagerly anticipating their release, just curious where they will fit in the quiver...
Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
183 points
Jul 30, 2016
5.10 doesn't get it-- starting and stopping production of a shoe is super-annoying and disenfranchises their core customers: people who climb a lot and continuously buy the same shoe over and over again. Most people don't buy climbing shoes as a fashion statement-- they find something that works for their foot shape and their style of climbing and they stick with it.

la sportiva gets it-- when they find a shoe that works well, they make it for a long time (muiras, tc pro, solution, mythos, etc...)
mpech
Joined Sep 8, 2013
40 points
Jul 30, 2016
mpech, you are soo right.

But... I am so happy they will restart the sale of a steroid kind of Blanco that I will save anyway to buy it as soon as it hit the shelves!

I stay frustrated in some way about 5.10 for the lack of consistancy in production of the good shoes! In fact, when the stopped the sale of the pink and the blanco I started buying some La Sportiva and in fact, 5.10 lost a part of the money I spend on shoes every year because I now buy shoes between two brand instead of only one like before.
bobmirko
Joined May 27, 2010
106 points
Jul 31, 2016
FiveTen definitely doesn't get it. To discontinue the Blanco when their best trad athletes (Trotter, Stanhope, Jorgeson) used it (and the first two continue to use it) for all their hardest sends. It got even weirder when Jorgeson used the Blancos for all the Dawn Wall attempts except the year they finally sent, he was in TC Pros?!? A FiveTen athlete uses a competitor's shoes for most high profile and well photographed ascent in climbing history = WTF?

Speaking of TC Pros, I'll echo what bobmirko mentioned - since FiveTen discontinued almost all their decent trad shoes, many of my partners bought a pair of TC Pros for the quiver and many now climb exclusively in Sportivas. The TC Pro has had to be the greatest gateway shoe any brand has created.

On a positive note, when I learned that the Blancos are coming back it allowed me to finish the mods (and/or deconstruction) I made to my pair to convert it the all day, high performance trad shoe that seems so elusive to FiveTen. For me it is the Blanco with a comfortable, non-tensioned heel. Anasazis fit my foot perfectly, TC Pros are a little narrow; and I prefer the stiffness of the Blanco over the Verdes/Pinks for long routes and cracks.

Props out to this resoler, who planter the seed:

llanberisresoles.com/pages/mod...

So first, I removed the outer layer of the heel strap as shown in the link above. Modified shoe on left, original on right:

Rock Climbing Photo: Blanco mod 1
Blanco mod 1


This made a gigantic difference in comfort without affecting the performance for me. Actually, they climbed better all around since my foot was in a more natural position and my heels were not screaming before I got done with the pitch. Obviously, for dime-sized and smaller edging on 15M Hard Grit routes, the unmodified Blancos still are king.

A few days ago, I went one step farther and removed the inner heel strap, pretty ugly but so comfy. Full mod on the left.

Rock Climbing Photo: Blanco mod 2
Blanco mod 2


Too early to give a full review but they are really comfy and still edge fine and are great in cracks. Hopefully, I'll be doing some longer alpine routes in them soon. Can't wait to deconstruct the 2017 version...or, to try the Five.Ten TC Pro knockoff that may finally appear in 2017?
Doug Hutchinson
Joined Apr 15, 2014
18 points
Aug 1, 2016
It is hard to keep up with the way 5.10 changes their lineup, agree with the posters who said it hurts their biz of with climbers who find a shoe they like then stick with it. The old heel on the blancos didn't come close to fitting me so we'll see how these do. Been really happy with the pinkies though.

Not that it's all about looks, but I think an all white shoe is a bad idea. They'll look like turds once they get dirty or sweaty. The only thing worse than the all white shoe is the all black shoe!
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,928 points
Aug 1, 2016
caughtinside wrote:
Not that it's all about looks, but I think an all white shoe is a bad idea. They'll look like turds once they get dirty or sweaty. The only thing worse than the all white shoe is the all black shoe!


Well, since you bring up the subjective looks thing...I actually thought the old Blancos were one of the coolest looking shoes ever. And, this version of the newer one may have looked even better:

outside.co.uk/latest/news/The-...

The version they showed at the OutDoor2106 shoe (in that epictv vid, which I assume is the production model) without any orange accents looks like bling-less, boring beginner shoe IMO.
Doug Hutchinson
Joined Apr 15, 2014
18 points
Aug 1, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
Oh, good. I do think the orange accents look much better.

Lol@guy complaining about the look of the Blancos when he climbs in pink shoes. ;)
Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
183 points
Aug 1, 2016
Doug Hutchinson wrote:
or, to try the Five.Ten TC Pro knockoff that may finally appear in 2017?


What are these 5.10 TC Pros that you are speaking about?
kck
Joined Jul 22, 2015
84 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
Maybe the shoe Kevin Jorgeson is designing? Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
183 points
Aug 2, 2016
kck wrote:
What are these 5.10 TC Pros that you are speaking about?


Heck if I know anymore. I feel like a little gossip spreading rumors about a product that may never exist. Two years or more ago FiveTen Redlands told me they where six months out from releasing an updated Altia - which was as older hightop from the early 90s. It was delayed but actually appeared in the 2015 Fall/Winter FiveTen Euro catalog.

Rock Climbing Photo: Altia
Altia


But, never went to production because it was reported to be not quite right.

Ted, I think, is referencing a Jorgeson Facebook post where he was heading to China a few months ago to work on the ultimate Yosemite shoe and soliciting feedback.

Doug Hutchinson
Joined Apr 15, 2014
18 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
I mean...if someone asked: what is the ultimate Yosemite shoe, most people would say the TC Pro or the Blanco, so if he manages to design an effective cross between the two (high top Anasazi?), he'll probably do alright. Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
183 points
Aug 2, 2016
I think most "trad" shoes would benefit from a much less tensioned heel rand. In some cases no actually significant tension like many of the older shoes had would be all right too. My Achilles would thank you. Chris Rice
Joined Jan 11, 2013
45 points
Aug 2, 2016
Chris Rice wrote:
I think most "trad" shoes would benefit from a much less tensioned heel rand. In some cases no actually significant tension like many of the older shoes had would be all right too. My Achilles would thank you.


Couldn't agree more. My Achilles hates heel tension and the TC Pros hurt my Achilles even more than the high tensioned FiveTens do. I think this is because the TC Pro heel is smaller volume and rand cuts across my heel lower. But, when I whine about this to other TC Pro users less than 1 in 5 can relate so it all comes down to foot/heel shape.

Still, all my experiments with relieving tension in the heel rands of both the Blancos and TC Pros demonstrate to me you can remove a lot of tension without noticing a loss in performance on anything but dime edging.

Other's have discussed this issue before:

mountainproject.com/v/modify-s...
Doug Hutchinson
Joined Apr 15, 2014
18 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: yukon
Chris Rice wrote:
I think most "trad" shoes would benefit from a much less tensioned heel rand. In some cases no actually significant tension like many of the older shoes had would be all right too. My Achilles would thank you.


Agreed. I just went through hell trying to find shoes that had good performance without destroying my achilles. Ended up with the Luchador Lace which isn't quite as stiff as I would like but the heel cup is dreamy and my tendon thanks me.
Seth Jones
Joined Feb 17, 2015
39 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying 2nd (or was it 3rd? 4th?) on Turk's Head ...
Yeah, I finally felt a bit of what you guys were talking about with the TC Pro heel tension and Achilles pain, but that was on a 5 pitch climb with numerous hanging/slopey belays and keeping them on for upwards of 6 hours (yes, we're slow :p). Even then, it wasn't intolerable, just annoying, and not bad enough to warrant the PITA that is taking off and putting back on TC Pros... Ted Pinson
From Chicago, IL
Joined Jul 11, 2014
183 points
Aug 2, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: After a very very damp and cold evening climbing o...
Seth Jones wrote:
Agreed. I just went through hell trying to find shoes that had good performance without destroying my achilles. Ended up with the Luchador Lace which isn't quite as stiff as I would like but the heel cup is dreamy and my tendon thanks me.

How are you getting along with the luchador lace? How does it crack climb?
that guy named seb
Joined Oct 24, 2015
182 points
Aug 3, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: yukon
that guy named seb wrote:
How are you getting along with the luchador lace? How does it crack climb?


I like 'em. They aren't super stiff and have some padding so I like them more than my Geshidos or Coyotes for cracks. I sized 'em for flat toes so they obviously don't edge quite as well as a downturned aggressively sized shoe. With that being said, I can still stand on dime edges, it just takes a little more muscle to do it. They probably aren't the amazing at any one job but for overall performance and comfort, they're great. I can climb pretty hard in something that feels like a house slipper which is tits.
Seth Jones
Joined Feb 17, 2015
39 points


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