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Anarchy Rules 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Alan Nelson, 1990
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 4,433
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Sam stickin' the crux.

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Description 

This is a good, hard route. The moves are sustained and non-positive. Once you start moving, keep climbing and it will eventually get better (at the anchors!!!). Overall, a good challenge.

Protection 

5 bolts/ 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of Anarchy Rules Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Just a clip and a mantle and should be good.
Just a clip and a mantle and should be good.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mid-route on Anarchy Rules.
Mid-route on Anarchy Rules.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sam finishing the last mantle, couldn't tell you w...
Sam finishing the last mantle, couldn't tell you w...

Comments on Anarchy Rules Add Comment
Show which comments
By MARSHALL BRITTLE
Sep 25, 2001

I DISAGREE WITH NATE THAT THE HOLDS ARE NON-POSITIVE, TAKE A BRUSH TO THEM, JUST FIND THE BITE, ITS THERE.
By Anonymous Coward
May 25, 2002

Sweet powerful crimps, jugs, and slopers. You've got to believe. Go with the flow and it weighs in around .11d.
By jonah
Jun 1, 2003

I agree this feels about 11d if you are insecure and downrating climbs makes you feel better about yourself.
By Ken Cangi
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Packs a punch like everything else on this wall.
By Monty
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Apr 9, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I've never had soo much fun on such a short route. Good crimps and mild slopers on a steep face with great movement.... Get ON It.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Jan 17, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

11d, I call BS. The useless anonymous coward strikes again for the downgrade. Even in ELDO!!! this route would be 12-, in Boulder Canyon 12d. in the Gunks 9+, Red River Gorge 12c. Downgraders be damned!!!
By Luke Childers
Aug 28, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Hey now I cut my teeth in the Gunks for 15 years! This things is a 5.8- out there!! Lol
By Geoff U
From: Centennial, CO
Aug 7, 2017
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I had forgotten how fun and beta-intensive this route is. BETA ALERT: for moving above the second bolt, get a very high right foot (the flat incut that you toss left hand to early on) while your hands are still low/on positive holds. Go right hand to sloper - bump into side pull and then MATCH feet and flag right foot out to combat the barn door while going left hand to the flake. Prior to matching feet, I was stumped.

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