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Anarchy in the UK 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Kurt Smith, 1990
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 1,771
Submitted By: Nate Weitzel on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (42)
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Photo by Steve Z.

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Two tricky cruxes, one is very thin and balancy while the other is powerful and bouldery. A good route but the second clip can be intimidating.


6 bolts, 2 coldshuts anchors. Difficult to clip the second bolt.

Photos of Anarchy in the UK Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Steve Z.
Photo by Steve Z.

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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 12, 2001

Also a little sketchy going for the anchor. Look for holds behind the lip before you commit to pulling up slack. It looks like you could just about hit the deck if you fell there.
By Nate Weitzel
Sep 22, 2001

I would say this this route rates in very close to its neighbor, Anarchy Rules. It definitely has some spook to it. Having never climbing it with the above mentioned fin I don't know how it used to feel but I would still stick with the 12b rating.
By Mark Eller
Nov 9, 2001

My favorite route on this end of the cliff -- technical and surprisingly pumpy for such a short climb. A little intimidating at the top, but if you find the good holds right of the anchors you'll be fine. Doesn't this grade (and its neighbor's) seem a touch light when to compared to Anarchitect? Maybe it's my style (I love crimps, hate dynos and slopers) but this feels like 12a, while Anarchitect seems solid for 12d.
By Nate Weitzel
Nov 10, 2001

Anarchitect is solid 12+, i agree. This route is either 12a/b or lets just call it 12-.
By Chris O'Connor
From: boulder, co
May 29, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Is this route #4 in the route Photo?
By Rich Aschert
Nov 11, 2007

This used to be one of my favorite routes on this crag, but since someone took it upon themselves to add two additional bolts; it's just another clip-up.
By Geoff U
From: Centennial, CO
Aug 7, 2017

I did not enjoy the 1st 3 bolts - was very hard and awkward. The second half, however, was fantastic. So a fun link up is the 1st three of Power Trip and the last few of UK.

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