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B&B Buttress (Indian Canyon)
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Anaphylactic Shock T 
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Anaphylactic Shock 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Stew Berry, 7/2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 614
Submitted By: Billy Smallen on May 25, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Anaphylactic Shock

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This gem of a climb is so named because while Stew and I were checking out the climb he was swarmed by bees! A little swelling did nothing to deter his FA send, however!

Climb either side of a small pinnacle (both off-widths) and once on top, climb the great, varied width, crack that shoots to the top of the buttress. Start with a bouldery face and crack section that warms you up for the crux. Bust some awesome crux moves and then finish up in a varied hand crack (5.9). Make sure to place some directionals when TRing or you are looking at a swing.

Location 

This route is about 100 feet right of 'I smell Bacon!' a narrow ledge connects the two or you can walk around. You will see the obvious pillar on top of a little rise. The bee hive might still be active so be cautious hiking up (it was never a problem again).

Protection 

Bring a Valley rack with black aliens for the crux. If you want to protect the lower sections then bring big cams (#5-6 for the left side #4-4.5 for the right) or just run them out (left side is 5.8). A small stopper is mandatory to protect the first crack moves off the top of the pillar. Leave a 0.75-1 camalot for the directionals up top.

There are rap anchors off a tree but to prevent drag you might want to consider setting up an anchor at the top of the crack with #0.5-#3 camalots.


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