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Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Unknown, possibly vasya
Page Views: 1,181
Submitted By: jedidiah on Dec 19, 2011

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Jed finding what little there is over the lip...


This is the blunt arete to the right of lumberjack. The stand went back in the day of "Rio" and felt V8. A few years back Vasya did the sit. Start on a small pinch with your right and your left on a side pull, stand up into a very powerful under cling and slap right hand to a good side pull muckle your feet and body up squeezing so water comes out of the rock. The climb feels like 2 stacked V8s to me but really needs more opinions


the Scoop area, on the same rock as Lumberjack



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By Tyler Hogan
Jan 17, 2014

Unfortunately, I was working this problem recently and broke the right hand start hold for the sit. The problem may still go without the hold, but it would be significantly harder. I left the hold there as it would be a very easy hold to glue (small flat chip) but I am not sure how other folks feel about that. Apologies for breaking it, happy to help glue it if anyone feels strongly that it should be glued.
By jedidiah
Feb 17, 2014

so if you broke one of the crimps, i think it will be fine cause most people use the nasty right hand pinch ... if im remembering right
By Tyler Hogan
Mar 30, 2014

unfortunately it is the right handed pinch that broke
By jedidiah
Apr 26, 2014

ill have to try it again this week, thats gonna be really hard....
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 19, 2015

I climbed the stand start to this today as the sit is broken. You start standing with the right hand on the obvious sidepull flake and the left hand on an undercling. A few tricky moves on sloping crystals leads to better holds and the top out. I thought this climb was going to be pretty cool but it ended up being so so as the cool starting moves are over way too soon.Probably around v7/8.

The sit will still go, but it's going to be a little bit harder than before and revolves around a very low percentage starting move. I tried it a bit and was in the vicinity of sticking it, but I lost interest pretty quickly as it's not that much fun.

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