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YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 5/98
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,301
Submitted By: M Sprague on Jun 28, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Ryan Webster beginning the traverse of Anaconda-Da...


Anaconda-Da-Vida, Baby (rhymes with the dreadful Iron Butterfly song) This technical route shares the same start as King Cobra and White Snake, pulling through a low small roof to a rest, then a tricky bulge onto the face. It then breaks left, following an angling seam. This section is thin, surprisingly pumpy and a little scary as you are angling out from your bolts. I heard a hold broke here, bumping the grade up a little since the FA. At the end of the seam, head straight up the face to tackle the dark bulge split by a curving crack, then up the final steepening face to the chains up right. I think the climbing is very good, but for some reason it doesn't get many attempts, perhaps due to it's reputation for somewhat scary feeling thin and tricky climbing. You will need to catch it when things are dry as the top often seeps during the wet season.


Lower Orange Crush, on the Black Mamba wall, starting just left of that route. The start forks into 3 routes. This is the left branch.

Lower with a 60 m rope


Sport, with a 2 bolt anchor. Bring a few longer draws and maybe a sling or 2. Stick clipping the first bolt is a good idea as the bottom can be sandy. 60 meter rope to be on the safe side. The route is longer than it looks.

Photos of Anaconda-Da-Vida Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Webster getting into the pumpy upper section ...
Ryan Webster getting into the pumpy upper section ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Webster on the cool heel hook clip of Anacond...
Ryan Webster on the cool heel hook clip of Anacond...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Webster traversing through the crux of Anacon...
Ryan Webster traversing through the crux of Anacon...

Comments on Anaconda-Da-Vida Add Comment
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By stow
Jun 6, 2013

I like Iron Butterfly. And I like this route. Another good but less popular one- shady in summer in the afternoon too. More d than c due to what (I think) was a hold breaking above the mantle ledge? Or maybe it always just a terrible crimp.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I think Anaconda-Da-Vita should be in the running for the best 12d at Rumney. It has it all--a technical start, heady climbing away from your bolt, an insecure clip, a hard crux, and pumpy steep climbing after.
By Gabriel Faucher
Oct 1, 2014

in my opinion aquarius is the best of all 12d
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 1, 2014

Aquarius is certainly the prettiest (except for the badly glued hold). I might have to call Man Overboard the best, if you give it the grade, though it is a little soft for that imo. Lots of good competition for great 12ds at Rumney.
Anybody done all of them in a day, or even just all of them? That is like 20 pitches of 12d (not counting silly link-ups or projects)
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Oct 6, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I don't think Man Overboard is one of the best. It's too disjointed, IMO. I think my vote would be a tie between Anaconda and Aquarius.
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 8, 2014

yeah, Aquarius and Man O might have to be tied for me though the latter is disjointed its.... JUST COOL! haven't done anaconda yet but it's on the upper end of my Orange Crush to-do list...
By Gabriel Faucher
Oct 14, 2014

i didn't know there was a glued hold in aquarius... it's not that so badly done if i missed it, where's that hold in the route?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Oct 14, 2014

It may have been patched up or removed since I was last on it. It originally had very visible, aqua green colored epoxy smeared around it. (early technology I guess) I never really understood it, as it wasn't a really necessary hold anyway, though the hold did provide a shake for some.
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
Aug 5, 2015

For the curious:

By Will McFarland
From: Lebanon, NH
Jul 18, 2017
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I wish there were more sporty routes like this at Rumney. Unlike most other 5.12+ routes there, this one isn't broken up by a massive rest, and as a result it takes some mental fortitude to send. I'd say there's no better 12d at Rumney and definitely not one that's more sustained.

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