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Pirate's Cove (aka The Beach or Corona Del Mar)
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Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
Page Views: 4,340
Submitted By: Bryan G on Nov 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Nichoas Rondilone on Anabelle. Photo by Alyssa Ala...

Summer climbing times restricted MORE INFO >>>


It starts in the middle cave that faces out into the harbor. The cave usually has graffiti in it. Stem up to the roof, under-cling the big slopey horn, reach for the two knobs, then slap the jug and hang on for a big swing. It's sort of reachy but also one of the best problems at Pirate Cove.


There's nice soft sand to land in, no pad required. But a spotter might be good because you get so horizontal at the crux.

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By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Aug 7, 2008

There's a heel toe lock under the roof that is the key to this problem.It keeps your feet from peeling off when you go for the lip.
By Fat Dad
From: Los Angeles, CA
Oct 14, 2008

If you can't get the heel-toe, this problem is a lot harder than rated.
By Gilles
From: Arcata,CA
May 30, 2009

This is one of my favorite climbs, although just recently the big jug that you shoot for has broken off. Not sure what to rate it now, hahaha.
By Patricio Chervin
Mar 27, 2010

Anyone have any beta for finishing this problem now that most of the original holds are missing? any picture or videos would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Patrick.
By T B
Jun 23, 2012
rating: V2 5+

I broke off a hold over the lip many years ago. Had the heel/toe locked. Hold hit me in the face and pushed my bottom teeth through my lip (happy for a sandy landing)... still have the lip scar.
By Christian Mercene
Nov 24, 2012
rating: V5 6C

As stated key holds have been broken near the top. Recent local consensus of the problem is v5. Here is some beta of me climbing it :
By Brad Alexander
From: Costa Mesa, CA
May 25, 2015
rating: V5 6C

Rock Climbing Photo: Just walked up to this, all the holds on the lip a...
Just walked up to this, all the holds on the lip are on the ground. RIP
By Dan Stringer
From: Eugene, OR
Aug 25, 2015

As stated above, this problem is now gone. This was the tallest, and one of the most fun problems there, imo. Haven't looked for a work around yet, as it still looks fairly chossy. But it looks like there may be a chance of working a new problem up the right side of the face, coming out of the cave, but this would likely be a much harder problem.

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