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Careno Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Swingin' Affair T 
An Exotic Affair T 
Bale/Kramar route T,S 
Careno Corners T 
Cool Struttin' S 
Corino Corner S 
Existential Exit T 
Exotic Dancer T 
Finders Keepers S 
Free Floyd T 
Heave Ho T,S 
Just a Gigolo T 
Killer B's S 
Left Wing T 
Nubbin Grubbin' S 
Passing Lane T 
Pocketmeister S 
Pumpline T 
Regular Route T 
Roger's Tower T 
Super Freaky T 
Wraptor S 

An Exotic Affair 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jens Holsten
Page Views: 453
Submitted By: Jens Holsten on Feb 10, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Trying to stay balanced on the upper arete of An E...

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Description 

Climb Exotic Dancer until able to make an obvious move left into a thin, hanging crack. A finger piece or two is placed while negotiating the crux locks. Once the crack peters out, pass two bolts on a lower angle, but still difficult arete. Nice water sculpted pockets lead to the belay.

Location 

In between A Swinging Affair and Exotic Dancer

Protection 

2 bolts, finger gear for the crux and a few pieces for placing on Exotic Dancer before moving left.


Photos of An Exotic Affair Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Breaking away from Exotic Dancer and moving into t...
Breaking away from Exotic Dancer and moving into t...

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By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Feb 10, 2015

This route looks pretty sweet! I might have to give it a shot next time I get up to that area!
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
From: Bellingham, WA
Feb 11, 2015

Yes, very nice, but what is a "hanging crack"?

Do you mean "overhanging"?
By Jens Holsten
Mar 31, 2015

By "hanging" I mean a crack that is on an overhanging wall, but does not reach the ground. It defines only the middle portion of the route.
By kerwinl
Apr 13, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

A little dirty, but a very good addition to a stellar little crag, nice work jens. I gave some of the footholds and handholds a little more brushing, hopefully it gets some more traffic.

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