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An Act of Strange Boar 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jon Nelson (with Derek Pearson and Eric Hirst) 2/12/2012
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 3,379
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Mar 26, 2012

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Tony starting the crux.

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[The full name of this route is actually "An act of strange boar, a group of mysteries of frenchwoman, a ship called black rock, and a hatch."]

Strange Boar is the spectacular dihedral just R of Baby Tapir and just L of Rice Krispies. It's reminiscent of Slow Children, but thinner and more sustained.

If you have pudgy fingers, you may find this route to be a lot harder than 11a. Daintier folks, however, may think it's only 5.10. Either way, climb it. It's a pretty dang classic line.


See Baby Tapir overview photo. Start at a comfortable ledge (2 bolts) a short distance above the trail.


Pro to 1". Mostly thin cams and small/medium stoppers. A single 60m rope will get you down.

Photos of An Act of Strange Boar Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon leading on the first ascent, 2/12/2012
Jon leading on the first ascent, 2/12/2012

Comments on An Act of Strange Boar Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 18, 2016
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Mar 26, 2012

My calf muscles started to blow out before my arms, but the arms also almost blew out at the hand pod near the top. It's not very long, but good luck finding good rests. It has a nice ledge at the top to sit down and belay your second.

If you can do this line, you ought to be able to cruise Slow Children.
By MorganH
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13

Super fun line!
By michal
From: Everett WA
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Perfect climbing link with next pitch for a rope stretching masterpiece
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 11, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Is it cheating if I bear hug all the way over to the flake, worked for me.
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Feb 11, 2014

Geoff, do you mean the flake on Rice Krispies?

I don't think it is off. Sounds like an impressive way to go.
By Chris Kalman
Jul 21, 2014

Has anyone redpointed the last pitch? I tried it today and found it quite good - I even think it may have been my favorite pitch on the route! I had some trouble and fell a couple times through the traverse, but I'm thinking around Index 12a... Anyone?
By Jon Nelson
From: Bellingham, WA
Jul 22, 2014

Hi Chris,
I was hoping to add a bolt to the start of the traverse crack, cleaning off an easier start, and giving it a try again, maybe later this week.

Last time, I had the same experience as you. Fantastic finishing moves. Glad you like it. But no, I haven't heard of anyone else trying it.
By James Ellis
From: Seattle, Washington
Sep 15, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Felt a tad harder than Slow Children at the start. Definitely link this with A Group Of Mysterious French Women as one pitch. Bring 1-2 hand size cams and save some medium nuts for the top.
By Drewsky
Mar 12, 2015

Great line. I climbed it when the crack was wet, but it still climbed well. The move getting into the corner is tricky, but overall I didn't think it was as sustained as Slow Children.
By Aaron O
From: Seattle, WA
Jun 28, 2015

Awesome climb. It protects very well the whole way to the top and is thoroughly enjoyable all of the way to the chains!
By Zacks
Aug 6, 2016

cool climb, struggle bussed and took through the crux, but my fingers are kinda thick. There appears to have been a belay anchor that had hangers removed dunno what that's about, but there where to bolts sticking out with the washers still on the bolts but no nuts or hangers. We still made the Frenchwomen anchors off a 70 from the ground so you don't' really need a belay anchor. You'll want a couple pieces in the .2 to red c3 range for the crux, .3 x4s would fit in your only finger holds lol. Used a .75 in the easy section right before the start than nothing bigger than .5 for the rest of it for me (all BD sizes)
By derekpearson Pearson
Aug 9, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I can't remember if I removed the hangers or not but I placed it there because the gang and me thought it was a good spot to start from. Its not needed though. I think I drilled the holes deep enough to push the bolts in and hide them or cover the holes.
By Douglas T
Sep 18, 2016
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Those with really small fingers will giggle as their fatter fingered partners struggle through the crux. A short but difficult crux leads to lots of fun movement. Great pro throughout the entire climb.

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