AMS this last trip: How bad was it really?
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Just got back from a Rainier attempt. I tend to acclimate not so well and was looking for a slow climb, and two nights. |
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That sounds pretty bad too me. You could have died if you went higher. It sounds like you were lucky not dying during the descent. Being in shape does not have much effect on getting AMS or not getting AMS. You need a new partner; partners are to enhance safety in the mountains. |
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It sounds like there were a lot more issues than AMS... |
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I don't know if the technical difficulty was too much for him. If he wasn't dehydrated and didn't have MS he probably could have handled everything ok. |
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Ya the only thing I would say is, get a new partner. Not worth climbing with a guy like him as it doesn't sound like you can count on him in the least. |
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That is quite a story. Glad you made it down - sounds like it was pretty close. By paragraph 2 of your report, it sounded like you need a new partner. Your medical condition: I have seen lots of AMS and had it myself a bit, and never that bad. Sounds like big electrolyte imbalance to me. Did you drink huge amounts of water initially, without much food or gatorade-type drinks? if so, you can get hyponatremia, which is too much water and not enough salts (layman's words). It can seem like dehydration, which makes people drink more water, which makes it worse (see running literature). en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypon… Something to consider. |
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Your partner sounds like a fucking lunatic. He clearly just wants to solo shit anyway, don't climb with him anymore. |
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Robert Buswold wrote:I don't know if the technical difficulty was too much for him. If he wasn't dehydrated and didn't have MS he probably could have handled everything ok. Big things here are that your partner is an idiot and a liability, and you should have had more water. A little better planning is probably in order, and better communication between you and your future partners (I'd hope you wouldn't climb with the douche you were with again). Hopefully you are feeling better now and continue to heal up. Good luck man.Idiot, maybe, liability, no. A liability is someone with altitude sickness that you have to help down the mountain. Sounds like communication was broken from the start. Both are at fault for not communicating, but the OP is the one who is paying the price and who should have sorted it out at the very start. What happened was more like two people soloing with some shared equipment. That could be fine if both people agreed and were expecting it. looks like he was expecting to act as independent climbers and the OP was expecting to support each other. |
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viral/bacterial; exacerbating hypoxia & fatigue problems with altitude; & dehydration. nice partner |
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Thanks for the replies all, and Yes feeling much better besides being sore. Yesterday I just ate, and drank and stayed home. I drank 3 quarts of water before the decent without eating much, so reading about hyponatremia I had quite a bit of the symtoms too. A lot of them are similar to AMS. |
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Jim Davidson wrote: Sounds like big electrolyte imbalance to me. Did you drink huge amounts of water initially, without much food or gatorade-type drinks? if so, you can get hyponatremia, which is too much water and not enough salts (layman's words). It can seem like dehydration, which makes people drink more water, which makes it worse (see running literature). en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypon… Something to consider.I think you nailed it here. You might want to see the doctor just because you shouldn't take all medical advice from MP, but I can say that I had very similar circumstances to this just less than a week ago on Mt. Whitney doing the East Buttress. I was at sleeping at altitude (12,000 ft) and could not stop cramping (not just in my legs but in hands, abs, biceps) and had bad headaches with some manageable nausea. Having never suffered any AMS related symptoms at all up to 19,000 ft and being in good shape, it was very concerning. My first reaction was, "Crap I've got AMS, hey it happens to good climbers regardless of shape." I ended up descending first light in the morning, drinking 4 large gatorades grabbing lunch in Lone Pine and by the afternoon was back climbing (at around 9,000-10,000 ft) and feeling great with no cramps at all. One key factor in the differentiation between this and AMS is that I didn't feel drastically better desceding from 12,000 ft to 7,000 ft. The difference was only slightly better and it wasn't until I drank all the gatorade that I felt better. Most AMS sufferers that I've seen feel significantly better descending just a few thousand feet. After speaking with a doctor (she's a climber and has altitude medical training), some runners and a nutritionist, they all gave similar feedback. All said you can probably get by with some Hyponatremia at sea level, but mix in the altitude (which dehydrates anyways) and it's a bad result. In retrospect where I went wrong was the day before having several nalgenes of water and no electrolytes. I effectively flushed my system and it couldn't recover. Painful lesson to learn but that's my experience and it sounds similar. |
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Daniel, |
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Jim Davidson wrote:That is quite a story. Glad you made it down - sounds like it was pretty close. By paragraph 2 of your report, it sounded like you need a new partner. Your medical condition: I have seen lots of AMS and had it myself a bit, and never that bad. Sounds like big electrolyte imbalance to me. Did you drink huge amounts of water initially, without much food or gatorade-type drinks? if so, you can get hyponatremia, which is too much water and not enough salts (layman's words). It can seem like dehydration, which makes people drink more water, which makes it worse (see running literature). en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hypon… Something to consider. Mike Best wrote: I think you nailed it here. You might want to see the doctor just because you shouldn't take all medical advice from MP, but I can say that I had very similar circumstances to this just less than a week ago on Mt. Whitney doing the East Buttress. I was at sleeping at altitude (12,000 ft) and could not stop cramping (not just in my legs but in hands, abs, biceps) and had bad headaches with some manageable nausea. Having never suffered any AMS related symptoms at all up to 19,000 ft and being in good shape, it was very concerning. My first reaction was, "Crap I've got AMS, hey it happens to good climbers regardless of shape." I ended up descending first light in the morning, drinking 4 large gatorades grabbing lunch in Lone Pine and by the afternoon was back climbing (at around 9,000-10,000 ft) and feeling great with no cramps at all. One key factor in the differentiation between this and AMS is that I didn't feel drastically better desceding from 12,000 ft to 7,000 ft. The difference was only slightly better and it wasn't until I drank all the gatorade that I felt better. Most AMS sufferers that I've seen feel significantly better descending just a few thousand feet. After speaking with a doctor (she's a climber and has altitude medical training), some runners and a nutritionist, they all gave similar feedback. All said you can probably get by with some Hyponatremia at sea level, but mix in the altitude (which dehydrates anyways) and it's a bad result. In retrospect where I went wrong was the day before having several nalgenes of water and no electrolytes. I effectively flushed my system and it couldn't recover. Painful lesson to learn but that's my experience and it sounds similar.We have a winner! talked to the Doc today and that is what he said it was. (with some mild exhaustion from not stopping to take a break but hey I'm a former Marine) I'm doing fine now besides the few bumps and bruises. I just kept drinking NUUN as it tasted so good this week and eating salty fried food. Fast forward to today and it no longer tastes so good but I'm feeling great. He also said most people experience some form of AMS too but ignore it and that probably made it worse. He also said I had a case of "clueless partner" as he should have noticed when I started to act weird (I could not tie prussiks, boot laces, or coil ropes and saying I felt drunk like and was clumsy). I'm just glad I didn't slip down one of those exposed snow slopes and fall over Wilson glacier falls. I guess my know it all partner did not know it all and almost got me killed. Lesson learned. cheers |
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