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Amore Eel S 
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Birch Fist T 
Blues for Mowgli S 
Drilldo S 
Hassig's Libido T 
Ladybug Death Orgy T 
Loose and Baggy S 
Man With a Hueco in His Tights S 
Promises S 
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Amore Eel 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 2006
Page Views: 1,434
Submitted By: lee hansche on Dec 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (52)
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Shows a cool perspective of the route!


A fun new addition and a good warm up for the other harder routes in this general area. The crux is pretty steep but breif then you get a rest and cruise to the top.

Start in the corner where Hassig's Libido starts. Stick clip the high first bolt and climb the Hassig's corner for a few moves then move left in to the crux section. Under-clings lead to a good layback that gives you the reach to get the next bolt and a hand on the ledge above. Throw a heel hook and mantel to a pretty good stance or a really good knee-bar. move a little left and climb easy rock up a layback corner and some quartz face climbing to the anchor.


The left most bolt line at Triple corners.


4 bolts to anchors.

Photos of Amore Eel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Shows the start of this awesome climb!
Shows the start of this awesome climb!
Rock Climbing Photo: Jeremy onsighting... again haha
Jeremy onsighting... again haha
Rock Climbing Photo: getting in to the second half.
getting in to the second half.
Rock Climbing Photo: start of Amore Eel on a cold day in may
start of Amore Eel on a cold day in may

Comments on Amore Eel Add Comment
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By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Dec 9, 2008

I'm unfamiliar with Hassig's Libido. Any description for that route? More importantly, any other description of where this one is located? Is it on the other side of the arete with the 12's? I'm looking forward to see what it's all about. :)
By lee hansche
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 10, 2008

oh yeah you dont have the old guide book...sorry...
its at the left side of the buttress left of Man With the Hueco...
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 6, 2009

Hassig's starts in the nice yellow corner left of Blues for Mowgli. Hassig then placed a pin in the bulge up and right. Unfortunately that line through the bulge kind of feels contrived to me, but it was a test piece for the time.
By twellman
From: Cambridge
Jul 19, 2009

Be careful of the tree behind and underneath you when clipping the 2nd bolt... if you fall backward at all, it might be in your path.

Otherwise, a fun route. Power crux, and fun un-rumney-like quartz at the top. Well done, Mark.
By S. Neoh
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Sweet short climb. Same grade as Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic (whatever that is). 10a and 2.5 stars to me. Fun route.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 9, 2011

Neat route with some cool climbing. The quartz at the top was a pleasant surprise. Our band of merry men (and Nicole) decided to scamper up to the anchors above and take in a few more feet of sunny slab - a little extra rope drag. For a route that I've walked by and never noticed for years, a fun experience!
By Tom Gnyra
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Stick clip and second bolt are sorta sketch. Otherwise, don't top rope this. The trees are mean and the swing keeps you out.
By kenr
Oct 26, 2015

Top-Rope dangerous because if fall off crux will likely swing back and hit tree.
By Ryan Loiselle
From: Pepperell, MA
Jul 31, 2017
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Nice easy lay-back moves to start. Stick clip was not needed for me, since there was a huge jug to hold (right hand), while clipping out left. Second bolt is also very easy to clip after you make a few committing (under-cling to flake to ledge) moves. The climbing got easier after pulling over the ledge past second bolt. Quartz at the top reminded me of "Gem Hunter" crag. Trees did not seem to be a big concern, but as always wear a helmet and be careful!

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