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Jebel Kharaz
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Amidst Difficulty Lies Opportunity T 

Amidst Difficulty Lies Opportunity 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 450', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Res von Känel and James Garrett, 14 November 2006
Season: Probably Spring and Fall are best
Page Views: 48
Submitted By: James Garrett on Feb 4, 2015

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Res starting up the first pitch during the FA

Description 

The route follows the very obvious wide appearing dihedral that continues to the top of the formation/tower. This seemed to us to be the FA of this tower as no other signs of a previous ascent were found.

From the car 3rd class up some slabs to the base of the dihedral where it steepens. Belay here.

Pitch #1: A very wide but straight forward right facing slot climbs to a two-bolt belay. Initially climbed only using very wide Camalots and running it out, we returned and placed 4 bolts on this very difficult to protect yet awesome first pitch. 5.9, 40m.

Pitch #2: Continuing up the now super wide crack system persuaded us to climb an exposed 5.9 face out left. We left a piton fixed here that offers some protection. Reach a ledge, then climb back into the wide slot and past two bolts and a thread eventually reaching a hand crack to a two-bolt belay on a nice ledge. 5.10, 50m.

Pitch #3: Climb a left facing dihedral to a difficult roof and then face climb to a ledge and belay. 5.10, 30m.

Pitch #4: Climb a left facing to a right facing dihedral to a two bolt belay. 5.6, 30m.

Pitch #5: Scramble to the top of the tower. 3rd class, 40m.

Return to the two bolt belay on top of Pitch #4, and rappel the low angle spur to where it is possible to walk off to the sand flats.

Location 

The obvious line on Jebel Kharaz. The famous Kharaz Rock Bridge is just to its right.

Protection 

QDs and a full set of Camalots and Nuts (Standard Desert Rack). Consider bringing new webbing to replace the sun bleached tat at the anchors.


Photos of Amidst Difficulty Lies Opportunity Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The view of the approach, start of the climb, and ...
The view of the approach, start of the climb, and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tourists on the nearby Kharaz Rock Bridge
Tourists on the nearby Kharaz Rock Bridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Res nearing the start of the actual climbing above...
Res nearing the start of the actual climbing above...
Rock Climbing Photo: Res following the last few easy steps to the summi...
Res following the last few easy steps to the summi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending the last steps down the rock spur with ...
Descending the last steps down the rock spur with ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jebel Kharaz looking down near the top. Note the s...
Jebel Kharaz looking down near the top. Note the s...

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