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American Outlaw 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Andrew Riley
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 148
Submitted By: Andrew Riley on Dec 27, 2015

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Swimming up a sea of limestone on American Outlaw

Keeping climbs open depends on maintaining good relationships with locals and monks contact Technical Climbing Club Myanmar (TCCM) for more information MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the extension to Slingshot Monkey. Tyler Hoffart bolted the line and first hypothesized that it was in the 5.13- range in terms of difficulty. The breakdown of the route is like this, 70 feet of consistent 5.12-, fighting through an overhang and technical terrain to a good rest (top of Slingshot Monkey), a 10 foot slopey v5 right into a 15 foot crimpy, reachy v5/6 with a not-great rest between. then you have 3 bolts of about 11+ reachy climbing on jugs and little knobs, then three bolts of victory 5.9 to the anchor (don't blow it). Adds up to a muscley 140ish feet of climbing. If you climb the full line in one pitch, I would recommend extending all of the draws on the first pitch to keep rope drag to a minimum at the top. It takes two lowers/rappels to get to the ground from the top. With a 70 meter rope I had my belayer lower me to the first anchor and then I rapped to the ground from there; This option is probably not possible with a 60 meter rope. If you have a 60 just do two rappels to the ground. Anyway, somebody else do this thing!

Location 

The extension to the furthest right route on Monk's Life wall.

Protection 

Bolts, Carabiners at the anchor.


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Rock Climbing Photo: American Outlaw First Ascent
American Outlaw First Ascent

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By Andrew Riley
From: Yangon, Myanmar
Apr 2, 2016

This route finally went down today, around 4 years after Tyler bolted it. Such an amazing line, what a beast. I really wanted it to be Myanmar's first 5.13, but we'll have to settle for Myanmar's first 7C? It's essentially the first 70 feet that go at 12b and the last 70-80 feet that go at 12c/d?, with several rests thrown in there. I've only climbed a few other routes of this difficulty, and none of them endurance routes. I am very curious to hear more opinions on the grade.

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