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(2) Llama Wall
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100% Beef S 
American Nirvana S 
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Cloud Nine S 
Condor T 
Entering Relativity S 
Eye of the Beholder S 
Eye of the Beholder Finish S 
Harvester of Sorrow S 
Junkshow S 
Lightly Toasted S 
Livin Large S 
Llama Enlightenment S 
Llama Sutra S 
Metal Smith S 
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When Llamas Need Protection T 

American Nirvana 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,109
Submitted By: Jon Rhoderick on Oct 14, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Dave on American Nirvana

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Another great shady sport route on the Llama wall. Climbs like a stiffer version of Entering Relativity, expect similar well featured footholds and mostly great holds. After a solo to the first bolt climb moderate and positive climbing heading towards a large pocket. Here the crux of a finger lock, gastons, and positive crimps stays on ya till you reach positive jugs. After the final crack sequence, which starts off as a left facing lieback into a right facing lieback. You could place an optional piece here but if your used to Smith bolting you won't have trouble here. On a rock quality and asthetics standpoint, I don't think it warrants the 4 star rating in the book (especially compared to Blackened) but American Nirvana offers great climbing

Location 

Two routes to the right of Blackened. The route starts soloing up a small juggy vert section to a ledge to the first bolt.

Protection 

Bolts and an optional finger size piece for the finish


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By Mike Rowley
From: Boise, Idaho
May 27, 2014

This route is actually the 2nd bolt line to the RIGHT of blackened. Deceivingly steep and pumpy. Hard to read crux on an onsite, but amazing incut pockets to suss out the sequence from! I def set up camp while looking for my sequence.
By Dylan Colon
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 15, 2014

This is a perfect example of a route with totally crap aesthetics but extremely fun movement. I would have never thought a climb like that was hiding on that kind of junky looking wall. I agree that the final optional gear is not necessary but it made me feel a lot better placing it because I probably would have fallen 30 feet (clean) otherwise had I not placed it and screwed up the final moves.
By Mateo San Pedro
From: OR
Jan 3, 2016

FA: Ryan Lawson
By Franck Vee
5 days ago
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

You do need a 70m to lower from that - 60m will run you short about at the 1st bolt. You'd have to use a quick link/leave a biner if you climb that with a 60m, and there are no convenient anchors lower down to do a proper rappel & clean your route.

I agree it's a stiffer version of Entering Relativety in many ways, though there are a few places that are a bit more cruxy, it's not as even difficulty-wise. Pumpier but then you can fashion some partial rests along the way.

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