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American Ninja 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Robert Finlay 1986
Page Views: 1,722
Submitted By: Bill Bones on Nov 5, 2007

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Shayne Durfee in the stem crux

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Above the middle terrace is an obvious clean cut red corner with a thin crack. Scramble up 50 feet to belay at the base of the corner. Climb the corner. Rap anchor at the top. Thin moves and thin protection but great climbing


up to #2 at the top RPs and other smaller stoppers

Photos of American Ninja Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Keith Phelps on the stem attack
Keith Phelps on the stem attack
Rock Climbing Photo: Shayne Durfee Right in the middle of the business
Shayne Durfee Right in the middle of the business

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By Bill Bones
Nov 5, 2007

I though this route was a solid 11a, though the book gives it a 10c. Thin moves with amazing stem/friction moves in the crux. bring some small cams and stoppers. We placed a #2 in a pocket down low and also another #2 at the top after the crux. Great route. I gave this route 4 stars because it was a challenge in every aspect, Gear, Climbing, and setting.
By Coz Teplitz
From: Watertown, MA
Jan 22, 2008

I thought the climbing was fun, but this route is really all about 1 move. A star or two, but nowhere near as good as Out of Control.
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I have alittle trouble giving this's realy just 1 maybe 2 moves....but they are 5.11 moves. So I'll call it 5.11, but I wouldn't argue against someone who said 5.10+.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 23, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

a #3 in a pocket down low is pretty nice to have- i didnt like any of the options for the #2...but if you're up there, you should have a #3 anyway since you are probably doing/have done Out of Control....
By michalm
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 12, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Exciting and stimulating route. All in the feet. The rock on the left wall is crappy and fragile and the rock on the right wall is high quality. The gear placements are small stoppers and RPs after the #3 to protect the belayer. I found little good gear after the crux and ran out the route after the last stopper before the crux. The bottoming groove on the upper half would take small hand-sized or large finger-sized cams, but the rock quality seemed dubious and the placements shallow. By the time I would have plugged a piece, I had turned the lip. Safe if the rock is good. Could be dangerous if the rock is not.

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