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American Mustang 

YDS: 5.14a/b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 115'
Original:  YDS: 5.14a/b French: 8c Ewbanks: 33 UIAA: X+ ZA: 33 British: E9 7b [details]
FA: Mark Anderson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,371
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Mar 31, 2014

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Stretching for the 'Bread Loaf', high above Clear ...

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This route takes a 'direct' approach to reach the Wiled Horses roof, cranks this gymnastic obstacle, and then snakes up the brilliant hanging headwall to the top of the cliff in 35 meters. The position is spectacular, and the stone on the upper panel is some of the best in Clear Creek - bright orange, crisp patina highlighted with marble swirls. However, the final two meters of the redpoint crux veer to within a few feet of the .30-06 crack. Those who choose to ignore the crack will enjoy an athletic and engaging Taipan Wall style romp up a vertical water groove. Those who opt left for handjams can claim an ascent of Wile E. Coyote (5.13d/14a?).

Stick clip the first bolt, and then follow easy jugs up the start of Roadrunner. Move left onto the slab proper at the second bolt, and then make fun moderate moves to reach the dusty cave. Pierce the intimidating roof with shouldery moves and swinging feet, followed by a cool mantel. The most difficult sequence follows - a thin boulder problem of edges, divots, and highsteps to reach a sloping shelf. Move left along the shelf, through an awkward pod, and then slope and slap up the pumpy, vertical rail to the suspended 'bread loaf'. Race the building pump, making exotic moves up the gymanstic groove, culminating in a precision stab to a diagonal slot (or grope left into .30-06). A few more pumpy moves lead to a well-earned shake at a horizontal break, followed by a final series of big cranks between sloping jugs to reach the top of the towering cliff.


This is the bolted line between Black and Tan and Mission Impossible, on the right end of the cliff.


12 bolts to a two-bolt chain anchor. First timers may want some gear to protect the runout between the last bolt on the slab and the first bolt in the roof, and a 1"-1.5" piece at the lip of the roof.

Rope drag beta: double draws on the first two slab bolts, shoulder-length sling on the third slab bolt, double-shoulder-length sling on the last slab bolt, shoulder-length sling on the first bolt in the roof. Hang a shoulder length sling + QD from the SMC bolt above the roof (first bolt above the roof), so you can clip it from the lip. As you climb out the roof, back clean each clip in the roof after clipping the subsequent bolt. This pretty much eliminates rope drag entirely, but you'll still be toting 15+m of rope at the redpoint crux.

Photos of American Mustang Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Working up the interesting slab.  Photo: Adam Sand...
Working up the interesting slab. Photo: Adam Sand...
Rock Climbing Photo: Half-way up the headwall, groping for the vertical...
Half-way up the headwall, groping for the vertical...

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