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American Fork Canyon

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American Fork Ice 
Australian Boulder 
Avalanche Buttress 
B-52 Wall, The 
Beer Can Alley 
Billboard Trail, The 
Bingo Baby 
Black Magic 
Blue Walls, The 
Bone Cave, The 
Cannabis Wall 
Commons, The 
Division Wall 
Echo Boulder 
Escape Buttress 
Forgotten Trails 
Grey Cliffs Picnic Area 
Hard Rock 
Hell Area 
Hideaway, The 
House Boulder 
Isolation Wall 
Juniper Wall 
Little Mill Area 
Little Mill Boulders 
Lower Division 
Membrane, The 
Red Corners, The 
Sign Wall, The 
Tank Canyon 
Temple, The 
Unknown Pleasures 
Upper Division Wall 
Watchtower, The 
White Wave Wall 

American Fork Canyon Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,055'
Location: 40.4323, -111.751 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 376,981
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Eric Jacobsen on Mar 27, 2003
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>


American Fork is known for its great sport climbing on steep, pocket-filled limestone. This is the home of Hell Cave with some of the hardest routes in Utah (multiple, quality routes from .12a to .14a!)

There is also plenty to keep the moderate sport climber happy. The Membrane is one of the most popular crags in the canyon with fine routes from .9 to .12c.

The canyon is narrow and deep with plenty of trees to keep your belayer shaded in the hot summer sun. Crags are on both sides of the road. There is an entrance fee to enter the canyon from either end.

Please read the Forest Service Policy on American Fork Canyon

Local Beta 

Mountainworks is the local climbing shop.

Mountainworks is the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.

Getting There 

From Salt Lake City, take I-15 south to exit 284 (Alpine/Highland/Timpanogos Cave). Head east on Hwy 92 which takes you right into the canyon.

From Provo, take I-15 north to exit 276 (Pleasant Grove). Turn right and drive east towards the mountains. Take a left on State Street and drive north. Turn right on Hwy 146 (100 East) which takes you all the way to the mouth of the canyon where it joins up with Hwy 92.

You can also enter American Fork Canyon from the top of the canyon by taking Hwy 92 past the Sundance Resort. From Provo head east; from Heber City head west on Hwy 189 into Provo Canyon. Then head north on Hwy 92. This is the long, scenic route and is closed in winter.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.1 miles from here

491 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',44],['3 Stars',206],['2 Stars',193],['1 Star',44],['Bomb',1]

Classic Climbing Routes in American Fork Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for American Fork Canyon:
Rockapella   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   Hard Rock
Caress of Steel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   The Membrane
Winds of Fire   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Hard Rock
Platinum Blonde   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Hard Rock
Many Options   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Hard Rock
Steel Monkey   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 50'   The Membrane
Remote Control   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Division Wall
Monkey Meet   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Escape Buttress
Six to Eleven   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   Hard Rock
Deep End   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   Division Wall
Rush Hour   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   Division Wall
Juggernaut   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Hard Rock
Suicide Blonde   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Hard Rock
Litmus Test   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Division Wall
License To Thrill   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   The Membrane
Division   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Division Wall
Teeanova   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Hard Rock
Liquid Oxygen   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 40'   Division Wall
Naked Nebula   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   White Wave Wall
Isotoner Moaner   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   Division Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in American Fork Canyon

Featured Route For American Fork Canyon
Rock Climbing Photo: Tyler pulling the crux.

Too Young To Be Human 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : The Grey Cliffs
I'm bored, and when I'm bored I find myself reminiscing about the good old days of climbing in AF. I loved the routes at the Grey Cliffs, and Too Young To Be Human is a perfect example why. Most of the holds on this route are good, but it is surprisingly pumpy. Start on the slab and climb up and right to a jug. From here, climb straight up the steep face with big moves between good pockets. It's classic. What more can I say?...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of American Fork Canyon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Summer climbing in AF.  Black Magic area.
Summer climbing in AF. Black Magic area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Some of the areas accessed from the Grey Cliffs pa...
BETA PHOTO: Some of the areas accessed from the Grey Cliffs pa...
Rock Climbing Photo: me on my first lime stone route that i know of... ...
me on my first lime stone route that i know of... ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Kurilich denied the Sundance, The Hideaway
Mike Kurilich denied the Sundance, The Hideaway
Rock Climbing Photo: Mike Kurilich on Sundance, The Hideaway
Mike Kurilich on Sundance, The Hideaway
Rock Climbing Photo: A summer evening in American Fork Canyon.
A summer evening in American Fork Canyon.

Comments on American Fork Canyon Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 28, 2017
By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Mar 21, 2010
is there any decent multi-pitch up the canyon that is worth getting one?
By jtwalter
From: Orem, UT
Apr 6, 2010
There are several multi-pitch routes listed here on MP:

Eight to Eleven - .11b 2 pitch
Old School - .10b 2 pitch

I hear there's a 2nd pitch to Stoic Calculus that is around .10a or .10b.

Suspect is an .11d 4 pitch route on B-52 Wall across the stream from Hell parking lot. There's also another route there that's listed as a project in the old Ruckman guide.
By Nate_801
From: St. George
Aug 1, 2010
I am getting ready to move to American Fork and was wondering if you guys knew any good route books for the Canyon??
By Darson K.
From: Provo
Feb 4, 2012
NateHeld, I moved here during the summer and I found about four good books on AF canyon. There are so many good routes up there and near by....INCREDIBLE climbing.
By MaRey
From: Salty lake, Utah
Mar 13, 2013
Anybody been to the hard rock or escape buttress areas recently, and if so how is it looking?
By SM Ryan
Apr 22, 2013
Climbed there 2 weeks ago- it was good.
By Jay Park
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 14, 2013
We are visiting Salt Lake City in late November. If the weather is ok, we might try climbing at American Fork Canyon. Which areas in the canyon are good for climbing during late November?
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Oct 15, 2013
AF is hit-and-miss in late November for weather and temps. There are some warm-ish, sunny afternoons to be found at these areas: Hard Rock, Escape Buttress, The Hideaway, Beer Can Alley, White Wave Wall, The Shame Wall, The Grey Cliffs, The Watchtower.

If you don't mid some good choss, the north side of Rock Canyon has some classics that can be a good choice around this time of year: Training Camp, Bad Bananas, Super Bowl Wall, The Wasp, Trilogy Buttress, Layer Cake, The Jobsite.
By tsaint
Jun 2, 2014
While driving up the canyon I've noticed on the left hand side (north end) there are quite few limestone towers a good distance away from the road. Does anyone know of any established routes on said towers or of the quality of rock?
By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
Jun 4, 2014
The towers on the north side are all in the Lone Peak Wilderness area, so it's unlikely that there are any routes, and even more unlikely that there ever will be.
By tsaint
Jun 9, 2014
Perin, thanks for the info and response.
By D Pearson
Nov 2, 2014
I'm a beginner climber looking to learn more about the sport and get more involved. I've noticed there are lots of moderate to advanced pitches, would there be anything good for beginners like myself?
By user id
From: Ogden, Utah
Nov 2, 2014
By Shanda Mills
Nov 6, 2014
D Pearson, yes, there are a lot of great routes for beginners! Try Rockapella, Late For Dinner, or Unknown 5.6 (left of Stump) if you're looking to try a lead climb.
By Chris Craig
Apr 17, 2016
Where would you reccomend camping in the canyon. I see there are two campgrounds; little mill and grantie flat. We will be there in early June.
By Salt Lake Climbers Alliance
Jul 3, 2016
JULY 16th, 2016
What: Help the SLCA and the Forest Service finish the staging area at the Division Wall. Bring water and snacks. Long pants, close-toed shoes, helmets, gloves, sun protection and sunglasses are required. The SLCA has extra gloves, helmets, and eye protection. Expect heavy lifting and physical work.
An Adopt a Crag is about giving back to the climbing areas we use on a regular basis. It is important that we make an effort to maintain and care for our climbing areas in order to keep them open. Climbing is a privilege and not a right. Give back to your crag and volunteer with us today.
When: 9am-2pm
Where: Meet at the Division Wall. Consider car-pooling from Salt Lake or before the tollbooth in American Fork. Drive 1.3 miles up from Timpanogos Cave to the Little Mill campground to find the Division Wall.
By Alan Collins
From: Bend, OR
Feb 17, 2017
Im going on a climbing trip to Utah in late march through early april. Doest anyone know if the weather will be warm enough?
By Todd H
From: Sandy, UT
Feb 19, 2017
It will most likely be warm enough. The bigger question is will it be dry enough because AF tends to seep especially in the spring. It will depend on the cliff, recent weather, snowmelt, etc. It's been a very wet year so far. If it's seeping in AF, the other mostly non-limestone canyons near by such as Big and Little Cottonwood are a good bet.
By nineplusplus Utah
Jul 3, 2017
Is there access to Bluewall etc at the moment?
By Jake W
Aug 28, 2017
I'm just starting to learn to lead climb. What routes would y'all recommend?

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