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American Dream 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 250'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2004
Page Views: 2,103
Submitted By: Zach Pickard on Oct 27, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: Knocked a death block off at the P1 crux. Luckily,...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>


One of the few Multi pitch routes at the quarry. Pitch 1 goes at .11b. Pitch 2 is some really awesome 5.10a low angle slab lybacking. Pitch 3 is an 7 bolt traverse under the roof to anchor number 3.Pitch 4 is .11c to shuts. Stellar climbing on small holds and beautiful exposure.


Just right of Catch 22. Roof area



Photos of American Dream Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Briezi rounding the end of pitch 3
Briezi rounding the end of pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: American Dream
BETA PHOTO: American Dream

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By chadhalstead
Jul 19, 2014

A QUALITY route with such variety of climbing styles. Face climbing , crack climbing ( fingers to fists ), traverse, liebacking..... Dont know what took me so long to notice this climb.

The pitches are very short, but if you're looking to get a variety of climbing, and smooth out your multipitch game, this route is very enjoyable.

Felt the route went pretty easy , but the 11c crux is the last few moves on small crimps/pockets to reach the anchors. Save a little gas for the end.
By Radly baird
Jul 29, 2016

Anyone know the rappel beta for this route?
By Adam Block
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 1, 2016

Since the route has short pitches and P3 traverses out of the pit under the roof, Rap from P3 anchors should bring you to the ground with a 60m if I remember correctly.
By Abec
Nov 8, 2016

Correct. You can lower or rap from the top of P4 to top of P3. A 60m will get you down from there. There are rap rings above the cold shuts on P4 with a fantastic perch for a top-belay; great view from here.

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