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American Dream 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Sport, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Chris Martin, 2000
Page Views: 1,278
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Dec 19, 2008

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Swiss climber on American Dream


American Dream is the kind of ultra-classic jug haul that the Red is famous for. The route has no significant crux, but a continuous string of challenging & engaging moves that deliver a good pump and complete satisfaction.

Begin by scrambling up the big ramp to the first line of bolts. A long reach to an obvious slopey hueco below the second bolt provides the hardest individual move. A series of enjoyable underclings & crossing moves, intermixed with good jugs, lead to the anchor.


Beginning from the large ramp at the left end of the Dark Side, American Dream is the furthest route right above the ramp.


5 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. Some people stick clip the 2nd bolt, since the hardest move comes right above the first bolt.

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By LeeAB Brinckerhoff
From: ABQ, NM
Nov 7, 2009

I preclipped the second, make a long reach up to clip the first then clip yourself into the first with another draw, attaching to the top biner on the draw on the wall and you should be able to reach up and clip the second draw without too much trouble, unless you are height impaired. Even having to pull off the ledge to clip the first could prove spooky to some.

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